JimBob2232 Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 Okay, so this morning I decided to tackle what I thought was a pretty easy dimmer switch replacement. I have a wall plate with 3 switches in it...the one on the left is a 3-way switch for the hallway, the one on the right goes to a living room outlet, and the center one is the dining room chandelier, which is on a dimmer. The Dimmer switch is the old school round knob type, and its going bad. The chandelier will start to flicker and you hear some "grinding" type noise in the wall-plate. These things happen...Time for replacement. So I turn off power (mind you, the 3-way switch on the left is on a different breaker than the other 2 switches in the junction box...but thats another story). Replace the dimmer. Turn power on..all works well...except for one problem...the cover plate wont fit! The new dimmer is the same size as a GFCI, and thus sticks out from the wall a little. The old dimmer just slid through a regular switch hole. So now I am in for some additional work, but I am not sure the easiest way to go, which is why I am turning to you all. My options as I see them: 1) Find a new cover plate with a Large GFCI opening in the middle. The problem with the approach is two fold... The old cover plate was a decorative wood one, so I would like to keep it, but not a big deal if i have to replace it...and I cant find one with the large hole in the middle on a 3 switch wall-plate! 2) Buy a new Dimmer switch and relocate this somewhere in the house with a single (or double) switch-box. But other than the dial-type dimmers, I dont think there are any other dimmers which will work with my current cover-plate. 3) Replace all 3 switches with Large Opening switches, and buy a 3 large opening wall plate. Expensive approach, but I can at least make this one work..Though honestly with 2 sources of power in this junction box, I dont want to mess with re-wiring TOO much. Any other thoughts out there? Thanks in advance for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UConn James Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 It'll be next to impossible to find a switchplate with that configuration. If you have a router --- or a coping saw if you don't want to go all Tim Allen "More Power!" --- would it be possible to trace the pattern of the dimmer switch into the middle section and just cut it out? The box would be able to clear, then. Need to be precise with the measurements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jack Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 As James said, can you make the opening bigger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimBob2232 Posted September 19, 2009 Author Share Posted September 19, 2009 As James said, can you make the opening bigger? I dont think so...the backing of this wooden plate has a metal plate on it. There is no easy apparent way to remove it (i assume its glued on). Plus I do not have a router. But I do have a sawzall...im sure that will do the trick... (joking). I do have a hand jig-saw. Might be able to use that if I can get the metal plate off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apuszczalowski Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 Is the hole Round? If so, use a drill. You can use a metal bit for cutting the back, and another bit for the wood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marv's Neighbor Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 I've had good luck with Ace Hardware. They have the "odd ball" configurations that you can't find in Lowes or Home Depot. If you have an Ace nearby, give them a try. They may even have a web site. The shipping could be expensive but if it saves you a bunch of running around, your saved time & gas may justify the shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jack Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 I've had good luck with Ace Hardware. They have the "odd ball" configurations that you can't find in Lowes or Home Depot. Agreed on Ace. We were installing a maglock that needed some weird size drill bit, like 13/128", a size you can't find at HD/Lowes. But Ace had plenty in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmac17 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 #3 really isn't an expensive option, 2 new paddle switches will cost you $2 each and a new plate will cost you $1. some people don't like mixing it up in their houses though. btw, put a dimmer in your bathroom as well - you'll thank me later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linksfiend Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 Umm - why not jusy buy a new round dimmer switch? http://www.fruitridgetools.com/storefrontp...8171&dfid=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Jim Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Just get some of the carbon monoxide from bbb's house. The lights will dim quite nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Is there a way you can attach a picture of what you are dealing with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Do you have to have the square (GFCI size) opening in the middle? Just move the other switches right next to each other and have the dimmer on the end. I am pretty sure they make a plate that has the that opening on the end with the pole switch openings next to each other. I know I have seen them that configuration plate. Or you can get switches that are top of each other and have the square opening right next to it... Not sure if you can get a three-way and two-way in that??... But, I will look. Nice to see a pic on what you are dealing with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UConn James Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 Do you have to have the square (GFCI size) opening in the middle? Just move the other switches right next to each other and have the dimmer on the end. I am pretty sure they make a plate that has the that opening on the end with the pole switch openings next to each other. I know I have seen them that configuration plate. Or you can get switches that are top of each other and have the square opening right next to it... Not sure if you can get a three-way and two-way in that??... But, I will look. Nice to see a pic on what you are dealing with. That would also depend on the size of the box. Criminy! "Three-ways"... "two-ways"... "boxes".... Re-arranging the outlets would do the trick. I believe I've seen that configuration at the box stores as well. Depends on how much slack there is in the wiring. Sometimes it's just not do-able with wiring nuts (there I go again... ) etc. Our house wiring is 12-gauge which was over-and-above code (uncle who did layout and installed it in the '70s was a master electrician) and moving it around when I replaced a couple of bath fans and their switches was like playing Operation with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Most houses have 14 which is easier to move. JB, have you seen those newer style oscillating cutting tools? Seem to be hyper-accurate even when cutting metal. Been meaning to check it out at the store myself. Lots of tight fits where that can be useful, and you don't have to worry about taking fingers off like with regular saws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 That would also depend on the size of the box. Criminy! "Three-ways"... "two-ways"... "boxes".... Re-arranging the outlets would do the trick. I believe I've seen that configuration at the box stores as well. Depends on how much slack there is in the wiring. Sometimes it's just not do-able with wiring nuts (there I go again... ) etc. Our house wiring is 12-gauge which was over-and-above code (uncle who did layout and installed it in the '70s was a master electrician) and moving it around when I replaced a couple of bath fans and their switches was like playing Operation with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Most houses have 14 which is easier to move. JB, have you seen those newer style oscillating cutting tools? Seem to be hyper-accurate even when cutting metal. Been meaning to check it out at the store myself. Lots of tight fits where that can be useful, and you don't have to worry about taking fingers off like with regular saws. I was kinda thinking that too. 15 amp circuits have 14 AWG and 20 amp circuits 12 AWG. Anyway, I am back on my conduit pulpit... How easy it would be if the house was piped out... Just relocate the dimmer or switches in some other box by pulling the wire to that box. Oh, you never have to worry about slack, because of course there is always a little left in there... See simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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