DrDawkinstein Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 I have a 2003 Nissan 350Z, 6-speed standard, just flipped 70k miles. Bought used a year and a half ago, clear report, has run great the entire time. Then last week some wacky trouble started... -The "Service Engine Soon" light came on. Ok, that's usually something in the emissions system, or most likely a loose gas cap. -Later the same day, while accelerating in 4th gear on the highway, my TCS (Traction Control System) kicks in like I had spun the tires and cuts power quickly but returns. At that point, I then had the "TCS Off" and "SLIP" lights come on. Theyre supposed to reset when you turn the car off. -I get to work and park it. When I come back, it wont start. It almost starts, it just doesn't turn over. If I try to start it a few times and then let it sit, and then re-try a few minutes later, it starts right up. But, all of the lights "Service Engine", "TCS off" and "SLIP" are still on. -It stalled out once while at a light after I got it started. Had to go through the same process to re-start it. But other than that one time, it runs fine once I can get it started. I thought it might be the chip, so I disconnected my battery overnight to reset the chip. When I hooked it back up, it stared fine right away. But shortly into driving it, the "Service" light came back on, the TCS kicked in again, and both of those lights came back on. Before I take it into a mechanic and get railroaded, can anyone give any advice on what I might be dealing with here? ECU (ship)? Fuel Pump? Distributor Cap? A possible combination of things? Any help is greatly appreciated... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steely Dan Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 IANAM but it sounds like you have an electrical problem there. If it was just the "Check Engine" light then I'd tell you they are automatically set to go off when you reach a certain mileage. If it hit 70,000 and it came on that might be the problem with that. However, the other stuff makes me think it's a deeper electrical problem. I don't see this being very likely but maybe the impulse to turn on the CEL somehow affected the other lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaska Darin Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Take it to Autozone and have them get the codes for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyal2dagame Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 IANAM but it sounds like you have an electrical problem there. However, the other stuff makes me think it's a deeper electrical problem. check voltage on battery while car running. could be alternator issue due to what you stated about stalling. if you dont have a multimeter/volt meter go to auto zone and they'll check it for free Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDawkinstein Posted July 28, 2009 Author Share Posted July 28, 2009 Take it to Autozone and have them get the codes for you. check voltage on battery while car running. could be alternator issue due to what you stated about stalling. if you dont have a multimeter/volt meter go to auto zone and they'll check it for free thanks guys (and Steely), this was going to be my next step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hazed and Amuzed Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Take it to Autozone and have them get the codes for you. You don't have to go to Autozone, I have the code right here; up up down down left right left right b a b a select start You're welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steely Dan Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 thanks guys (and Steely), this was going to be my next step. Guys and Steely!! Bite me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDawkinstein Posted July 28, 2009 Author Share Posted July 28, 2009 Guys and Steely!! Bite me! hahaha, that wasnt supposed to be a burn, but i had only quoted the other 2... you little biatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkyMannn Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 -The "Service Engine Soon" light came on. Ok, that's usually something in the emissions system, or most likely a loose gas cap ...................................................... Before I take it into a mechanic and get railroaded, can anyone give any advice on what I might be dealing with here? ECU (ship)? Fuel Pump? Distributor Cap? A possible combination of things? Any help is greatly appreciated... You're wrong on the SES light, it indicates a variety of issues beyond emissions and a cap. You're also all over the place on your guesses. Nothing wrong with admitting to your self with car technology today, you're in over your head. Autzone will read the code with a generalization of what your problem is, but they are unable to diagnose what the actual malfunction is. They will offer to sell you parts for every possibility. But to repair what is not working, you need to go to a capable technician Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDawkinstein Posted July 28, 2009 Author Share Posted July 28, 2009 You're wrong on the SES light, it indicates a variety of issues beyond emissions and a cap. You're also all over the place on your guesses. Nothing wrong with admitting to your self with car technology today, you're in over your head. Autzone will read the code with a generalization of what your problem is, but they are unable to diagnose what the actual malfunction is. They will offer to sell you parts for every possibility. But to repair what is not working, you need to go to a capable technician Thanks Mark, According to everything I've read about the 350Z, the SES was strictly emissions. I dont doubt it could be for something else, but according to the manual and what I've found online, it's emissions... at least that's all the info they offer on that. We'll see. As far as my guesses go, I know I was all over with them. I was using that to illustrate just how crazy these symptoms are. Normally, I can at least get an idea with the ol' Fire+Fuel+Oxygen triangle, but that isnt helping much here obviously. I want to take it to a capable technician, but I also dont want to make him capable of gouging me. I appreciate the response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Take it to Autozone and have them get the codes for you. He may have to duplicate the problem since he pulled the battery terminal to clear things. ?? I don't know Doc. I have to throw in a gratituous domestic joke... Oh, wait it is a 6 year Nissan. Now that the domestic makers are going belly up who is gonna deflect the heat from the rice burners. I am not sure about this vehicle... I am trying to think what went wrong with my 1998 Isuzu at about the same milelage. Have plugs ever been changed? I know on my Isuzu (throttle body fuel injection) the plenom was very dirty at that milelage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDawkinstein Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Autozone computer says the SES light is for the Cam Shaft Sensor. whether it's a short in the wire to it, or the sensor itself, i dont know yet. also said it could be the timing belt, but ive been told by the dealer that the belts shouldnt have to be replaced the saga continues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jack Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Autozone computer says the SES light is for the Cam Shaft Sensor. whether it's a short in the wire to it, or the sensor itself, i dont know yet. also said it could be the timing belt, but ive been told by the dealer that the belts shouldnt have to be replaced the saga continues. I've replaced that before on my work van, a GMC Savanna. If it's easy to get to on your vehicle, it's an easy 1/2 hour replacement with a decent set of wrenches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steely Dan Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Autozone computer says the SES light is for the Cam Shaft Sensor. whether it's a short in the wire to it, or the sensor itself, i dont know yet. also said it could be the timing belt, but ive been told by the dealer that the belts shouldnt have to be replaced the saga continues. I'd take it somewhere and them check the timing belt. If that sucker breaks it will cause a lot of damage. Expensive damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrFishfinder Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Don't screw around guessing at this or that. Get it scanned. Either take it to somebody you trust or go get a $150 Actron Scanner and see what's going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 I'd take it somewhere and them check the timing belt. If that sucker breaks it will cause a lot of damage. Expensive damage. On if the timing belt is on an interference egnine... Which dollars to donuts is the type that Dr. most likely has. Dr.: At 70-100k it is always advisable to change the belt and water pump. Some manus will say at 75k. Timing belts are used by two types of engines: the interference and the non-interference engines. The timing belt in an interference engine has to be well-functioning at all times to prevent the piston from crashing into an open valve, resulting in distorted valves, broken piston, and severe engine damage. In a non-interference engine, a faulty timing belt causes the engine to stop operating. Since timing belts are usually made of rubber with high-tensile fibers, they degrade with motor oil, antifreeze, and higher temperatures. Therefore, hot and leaky engines are major culprits for timing belt damage. Aside from protecting the timing belt from damaging conditions, a vehicle owner must also know when the timing belt should be replaced. This is because damaged timing belts rarely show any symptom. Moreover, damaged timing belts are quite hard to inspect since they are hard to locate. It is then best to replace the timing belt every 75,000 miles to 95,000 miles to ensure a more efficient engine performance. Sometimes, professional mechanic may recommend replacing the water pump and other parts when replacing the timing belt to cut down repair and replacement costs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDawkinstein Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Don't screw around guessing at this or that. Get it scanned. Either take it to somebody you trust or go get a $150 Actron Scanner and see what's going on. dont get me wrong, im going to take this into a well qualified shop to fix it right. my point here is that i have absolutely no clue what it could be, and i need to have at least SOME KIND of idea. im already willing to pay to get it done right, but i dont want that willingness to pay to open me up to being taken advantage of. unfortunately, i dont really have a place i already trust. as far as the timing belt goes, i was already saving to give the car an overhaul as it was, we'll see how much this little bump sets that back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 as far as the timing belt goes, i was already saving to give the car an overhaul as it was, we'll see how much this little bump sets that back... I would say 700-1,000 bucks for everything including the belt and water pump. EDIT: That is non-dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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