For all you Do-It Yourselfers

[Joe Miner]

Hey guys, I need a little help.

 

The finish on the cabinets above the stove in my kitchen is starting to wear out. The finish of the wood is looking a little patchy in places because it seems that the steam from the stove over time has taken its toll on the cabinets.

 

Is there an easy way to fix this?

 

I've tried Old English, and that hasn't done anything.

 

My knowledge on woodworking is very limited.

 

I don't know the type of wood the cabinets are made of. They are basic cabinets that you would buy from Lowes or something. Nothing special, so I would make normal assumptions, and not guess that there is anything special or different about these cabinets.

 

Thanks

[apuszczalowski]

hard to say without knowing what they are made of. I know in my experience working with a cabinet maker, the cabinets themselves were made from an MDF/pressboard material (the glued sawdust stuff) with a wood veneer on the outside or a melamine finish on the cheaper kinds. The Doors were typically actual wood, although sometimes they can be the same material as the cabinets with a veneer/melamine finish.

 

Depending on what kind of damage is done to the finish will determine what you can do to fix it. If the Cabinet is a melamine finish, thats a bit harder to fix (white kind of plastic like finish) if its wood with a wood stain, you could try and sand the stain and restain/paint them. Although if the steam has done anything to the wood, the stain will probably still show it, so you might have to paint or use a darker stain to hide it.

 

Do you have a vent/range hood above the stove? If not that should be something to look into to take any steam and grease out of the air from above the stove and keep from damaging anything.

[rockpile]

Is it the entire cabinet or just the door? It would be nice if you could replace the door. IF the door is a mess, take it off and take it to Lowes or Home Depot or (if you are very fortunate) a local "old time" hardware store. If the person at the larger places does not know, do not waste your time - talk to somebody else at the store for advice.

 

Problem is if you make this cabinet look clean and new, how does that affect the rest of the kitchen cabinets?

 

There are some good Min Wax stains that can be rubbed on with a clean rag, to make everything look the same. This could be done to the facing of all the cabinets. Old English makes some products to "hide" stains, but I have not tried them.

 

Most likely it is veneer so forget sanding them to "bare wood".

 

These are only possible EASY tips. There are a lot better ones that are not easy. It depends on your goal and budget.

 

 

Hey guys, I need a little help.

 

The finish on the cabinets above the stove in my kitchen is starting to wear out. The finish of the wood is looking a little patchy in places because it seems that the steam from the stove over time has taken its toll on the cabinets.

 

Is there an easy way to fix this?

 

I've tried Old English, and that hasn't done anything.

 

My knowledge on woodworking is very limited.

 

I don't know the type of wood the cabinets are made of. They are basic cabinets that you would buy from Lowes or something. Nothing special, so I would make normal assumptions, and not guess that there is anything special or different about these cabinets.

 

Thanks

[Joe Miner]

hard to say without knowing what they are made of. I know in my experience working with a cabinet maker, the cabinets themselves were made from an MDF/pressboard material (the glued sawdust stuff) with a wood veneer on the outside or a melamine finish on the cheaper kinds. The Doors were typically actual wood, although sometimes they can be the same material as the cabinets with a veneer/melamine finish.

 

My best guess is that it's a basic wood veneer finish. The cabinets were probably factory stained and finished, so I would assume it's a veneer finish. These are cabinets that were installed when the home was built. It's a basic developer home, nothing custom.

 

Depending on what kind of damage is done to the finish will determine what you can do to fix it. If the Cabinet is a melamine finish, thats a bit harder to fix (white kind of plastic like finish) if its wood with a wood stain, you could try and sand the stain and restain/paint them. Although if the steam has done anything to the wood, the stain will probably still show it, so you might have to paint or use a darker stain to hide it.

 

Is there a way to accurately match the stain? I could see sanding it a bit, and restaining, but I have no idea how to match the stain color.

 

Do you have a vent/range hood above the stove? If not that should be something to look into to take any steam and grease out of the air from above the stove and keep from damaging anything.

 

Yeah, there's a hood. But most of the damage was done before we moved in a few years ago.

[MattyT]

Like apuz said, knowing whether you're dealing with solid wood or a manufactured product like melamine over particleboard or MDF is important. If you do determine you have solid wood then, again, it's important to figure out which type of wood because different types of stains or varnishes work better. For instance, if they're cherry, then a regular stain will often leave a blotchy appearance, so you'll want to use a gel stain instead.

 

If the damage isn't too extensive, then I'd do a simple test to see what type of repair needed to be made. Take some mineral spirits (available at HD or Lowe's) and wipe it on the damaged area with a lint-free rag.

- If the color returns (matches the undamaged area), then you should be able to simply apply a polyurethane finish.

- If the color doesn't return, then you need to ID the wood ...so you know what type of finish to apply...and then begin the process of color matching.

- If the color appears darker, then you can apply some clear paste wax with a lint-free rag.

 

If the damage is to the majority of the door, then I'd sand all the existing finish off and do some color tests to the back of the door. Once I found a close match, I'd do the whole door over.

 

Edit: Oh yeah...if it's a veneer....be VERY careful about sanding. You can easily sand right through the veneer.

[stuckincincy]

My best guess is that it's a basic wood veneer finish. The cabinets were probably factory stained and finished, so I would assume it's a veneer finish. These are cabinets that were installed when the home was built. It's a basic developer home, nothing custom.

 

Is there a way to accurately match the stain? I could see sanding it a bit, and restaining, but I have no idea how to match the stain color.

 

Yeah, there's a hood. But most of the damage was done before we moved in a few years ago.

 

Another way to go is to replace the the doors on that run of cabinets with glass-paned ones, and proclaim it a "styling touch".

[erynthered]

Read this

[Joe Miner]

Like apuz said, knowing whether you're dealing with solid wood or a manufactured product like melamine over particleboard or MDF is important. If you do determine you have solid wood then, again, it's important to figure out which type of wood because different types of stains or varnishes work better. For instance, if they're cherry, then a regular stain will often leave a blotchy appearance, so you'll want to use a gel stain instead.

 

If the damage isn't too extensive, then I'd do a simple test to see what type of repair needed to be made. Take some mineral spirits (available at HD or Lowe's) and wipe it on the damaged area with a lint-free rag.

- If the color returns (matches the undamaged area), then you should be able to simply apply a polyurethane finish.

- If the color doesn't return, then you need to ID the wood ...so you know what type of finish to apply...and then begin the process of color matching.

- If the color appears darker, then you can apply some clear paste wax with a lint-free rag.

 

If the damage is to the majority of the door, then I'd sand all the existing finish off and do some color tests to the back of the door. Once I found a close match, I'd do the whole door over.

 

I'm almost certain it's a solid wood door.

 

I'll look into the mineral spirits.

 

I also misspoke earlier, it's not a veneer finish. It's solid wood, that in my best guess, has been stained, and then sealed (I assume a polyurethane finish since that's what you mentioned)

 

The steam has "eaten" through the sealant, and caused the stain to lighten in some spots. The bad spots on the door are no longer smooth and shiny like the rest of the door, but now have a rough wood feel.

[Joe Miner]

Read this

 

 

Yeah, I brought up painting them, but the wife isn't going for it.

 

So the options are:

 

1) Leave it alone, and hope it doesn't hurt resale here in a couple of years, since it's not "that" bad, and we are replacing the counter top, and painting the walls.

 

2) Fix it as cheaply as possibly

 

3) Replace cabinets which seems unnecessary as we like the cabinets, and the layout. There are just a few bad spots.

 

 

 

As you can see, I'm leaning towards fix it. As cheaply as possible.

[erynthered]

Yeah, I brought up painting them, but the wife isn't going for it.

 

So the options are:

 

1) Leave it alone, and hope it doesn't hurt resale here in a couple of years, since it's not "that" bad, and we are replacing the counter top, and painting the walls.

 

2) Fix it as cheaply as possibly

 

3) Replace cabinets which seems unnecessary as we like the cabinets, and the layout. There are just a few bad spots.

 

 

 

As you can see, I'm leaning towards fix it. As cheaply as possible.

 

 

I posted that because thats what I'm going to do with mine. Good luck, Joe.

[stuckincincy]

I posted that because thats what I'm going to do with mine. Good luck, Joe.

 

 

I'm finishing up the repainting of my cabinets - 1954 vintage.

 

Budget a lot of time...

[erynthered]

I'm finishing up the repainting of my cabinets - 1954 vintage.

 

Budget a lot of time...

 

 

Sanding should be fun.

[MattyT]

Read this

We did this exact thing two summers ago and it has made all the difference between dark and dreary and bright and pleasant. Probably one of the cheapest ways to up the resale value as well.

[DC Tom]

I'm almost certain it's a solid wood door.

 

I'll look into the mineral spirits.

 

I also misspoke earlier, it's not a veneer finish. It's solid wood, that in my best guess, has been stained, and then sealed (I assume a polyurethane finish since that's what you mentioned)

 

The steam has "eaten" through the sealant, and caused the stain to lighten in some spots. The bad spots on the door are no longer smooth and shiny like the rest of the door, but now have a rough wood feel.

 

I remember the last time I tried to refinish something I was "almost certain" was solid wood. I sanded through the veneer.

 

MattyT's advice was good...but be "certain" it's wood, not "almost certain". Wish I could tell you a foolproof way to do that aside from trying to sand through veneer...but that's the only foolproof way I know.

[MattyT]

I'm almost certain it's a solid wood door.

 

I'll look into the mineral spirits.

 

I also misspoke earlier, it's not a veneer finish. It's solid wood, that in my best guess, has been stained, and then sealed (I assume a polyurethane finish since that's what you mentioned)

 

The steam has "eaten" through the sealant, and caused the stain to lighten in some spots. The bad spots on the door are no longer smooth and shiny like the rest of the door, but now have a rough wood feel.

If you do decide to poly, then I suggest looking for a variety called "spar" or "marine" or one specifically for exteriors. It's a good option for wood that is exposed to excessive moisture. Then you just need to match the sheen of your existing doors (satin, semi-gloss, or gloss).

[apuszczalowski]

My best guess is that it's a basic wood veneer finish. The cabinets were probably factory stained and finished, so I would assume it's a veneer finish. These are cabinets that were installed when the home was built. It's a basic developer home, nothing custom.

 

 

 

Is there a way to accurately match the stain? I could see sanding it a bit, and restaining, but I have no idea how to match the stain color.

 

 

 

Yeah, there's a hood. But most of the damage was done before we moved in a few years ago.

the easiest way would be to take it to somewhere like Lowes or Home Depot and they may still be able to get you a replacement door. If its a basic door, it can probably still be purchased. Its not the cheapest route, but its the quickest and easiest.

 

Other wise it may just be a "clear coat issue" and you might not need to refinish them, just redo the clear coat. Usually they will stain the doors and then spray on a clear coat over top to protect it and make it a little more durable and easier to clean. It could just be the clear coat has started to wear off.

 

What you could do too is take it to a cabinet maker and see what they say, they might be able to touch it up for you without a problem, but it might cost you a couple of bucks, and might be the same amount, or close to just getting a new door. Not many cabinet makers I know actually make their own doors, most order them from a manufacturer and just build the cabinets themselves, a place like Lowes or Home Depot would not use a custom type of door

[rockpile]

We refaced ours a couple years back. It was about a third the cost of new cabinets, and more to our liking than paint.

 

I am satisfied, but I am not happy with them for a long period. I think refacing is a five year fix. My 2 cents.

 

The basic refacing project consists of installing new cabinet door and drawer fronts and covering the exposed face frames of the cabinets with a matching wood or plastic veneer. Most jobs take two to four days, depending on kitchen size and extras like replacing counters or adding an extra cabinet. The work itself is a standardized progression of tasks, generally handled by one or two craftsmen. They begin by removing doors and drawer fronts from cabinets and roughing up the old finish on face frames and side panels to prepare them for the new covering. They then glue and sometimes nail the new finish over the old, the nail holes filled and the seams and edges trimmed to make them unobtrusive. New panels or molding are used to trim out the exposed undersides of the upper cabinets to give them a finished look, and the base cabinet toekick is replaced. Finally, new cabinet doors and drawer fronts are attached, and new hardware is mounted on each of them.