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Posted
Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm going to root through the links that collegeguy provided and probably take it to the dealer and explain to them in very specific terms what the situation is, see what our warrenty options are, and then take it to VW corporate if everything else doesn't pan out.

 

My amateur diagnosis is that it may be a faulty MAF. It looks like they were recalled at some point.

 

Other points of interest:

- We have encountered the gas cap issue once already and make sure that the bastard is on there good.

- She has the 2.0L engine rather than the 1.8 Turbo so the ignition coil problem doesn't likely apply

 

Thanks again.

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How many miles? I ask because I've owned cars where the check engine light comes on at a certain interval of miles on the car (every 100k on an old Saab and every 30k on an Acura...I haven't the slightest idea about a VW, though.) Just something to double-check...

Posted
How many miles?  I ask because I've owned cars where the check engine light comes on at a certain interval of miles on the car (every 100k on an old Saab and every 30k on an Acura...I haven't the slightest idea about a VW, though.)  Just something to double-check...

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The car has 51002 miles. Not sure about VWs. I'll keep it mind.

Posted
Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm going to root through the links that collegeguy provided and probably take it to the dealer and explain to them in very specific terms what the situation is, see what our warrenty options are, and then take it to VW corporate if everything else doesn't pan out.

 

My amateur diagnosis is that it may be a faulty MAF. It looks like they were recalled at some point.

 

Other points of interest:

- We have encountered the gas cap issue once already and make sure that the bastard is on there good.

- She has the 2.0L engine rather than the 1.8 Turbo so the ignition coil problem doesn't likely apply

 

Thanks again.

62146[/snapback]

 

The diesels seem to have a bit more problems with MAF than the gas jobs. I'd recommend going to edmunds.com and work your way to the owner "tips" etc. section. Hunt around a bit - you'll find it.

 

With the long-produced 2.0 SOHC block, never use any oil with a 5W lo-temp component in my experience. 10W-40 and up is best. There are emission and lubrication issues IMO .

 

5W-30 is somewhat common these days- cold start, easier cold cranking (my Chevy S-10 4-cyl and my wife's Malibu uses that - I've used Mobil 1 since 10K in the S-10 - never use it as your 1st oil change - parts need to seat), but with no particular, traceble history, the 5W light fraction of any crankcase oil- theoretically - can work out thru the pcv-mediated valve cover port as hot mist is generated by heat and valve train action, and if the bypass circuit for the cylinder blow-by (normally getting dumped after MAF) gets constricted and bleeds into the AF box, it can load up the MAF wires and cause problems.

 

Again, just theories... ;)

 

Edit: Those OHC's and their belts and chain stretches...a degree or so out of time??? I'm a pushrod man... :D

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