\GoBillsInDallas/ Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 http://www.chicagotribune.com/news/nationw...1,6836393.story What the heck is a `beef on weck'? Tasty treat is rarely seen outside New York --it's all because of the roll, the Tribune's Rex Huppke writes By Rex W. Huppke, Tribune staff reporter, on assignment recently in Buffalo, where, in the interest of journalism, he ate numerous beef on weck sandwiches Published June 21, 2006 BUFFALO -- While restaurants across the country have shamelessly co-opted the fiery hot chicken that carries this city's moniker--making the Buffalo wing as ubiquitous as the cheeseburger--western New Yorkers have managed to keep an equally popular delicacy nicely under wraps. It's called a beef on weck, and the fact that Buffalonians have hidden this sumptuous creation from the rest of America for more than a century seems nothing short of a culinary crime. To the uninitiated, the first obvious question is, "What is a `weck,' and why would someone place beef on it?" Weck is short for kummelweck, a kaiser-like roll with pretzel salt and a smattering of caraway seeds baked onto the top, soft and chewy on the inside, firm on the outside. It's a roll created to perfectly hold a heaping pile of rare, juicy, thin-sliced roast beef. Add a dollop of fresh, clear-the-sinuses horseradish and you've got a sandwich few could ever forget. "It's got a long history," said Charles "Charlie the Butcher" Roesch, owner of one of Buffalo's better-known beef on weck establishments. "It's been around a long time, a lot longer than the wings." Buffalo wings, according to local lore, were created in 1964 by Anchor Bar owner Teressa Bellissimo. Some of her son's friends came in late one night hungry and she, having limited supplies on hand, used chicken wings, hot sauce, celery and blue cheese dressing to create the now-famous dish. The origin of the beef on weck is less certain. What's generally accepted is that in the late 1800s, a baker named William Wahr came from the Black Forest of Germany to Buffalo and brought with him a recipe for the salty kummelweck roll. A local pub owner looking for a simple way to feed his customers seized on the roll, figuring the salt would make his patrons even thirstier. He split the roll, heaped on roast beef au jus and horseradish and a sandwich was born. No one's exactly sure who that pub owner was. Some say it was the founder of one of western New York's oldest restaurants -- Schwabl's. But even the restaurant's current owner, Gene Staychock, won't make that claim definitively. "There's no documentation to prove it," he said. What's certain is that people who live here--or natives who occasionally return--can't imagine life without their weck-wrapped comfort food. "It's our own little specialty," said Mary Elizabeth Myers, a local who lunched recently at Charlie the Butcher's. "It's not a glamor thing with food here, you just go with a sandwich and a beer." So why is it that hot wings can be had at nearly every bar and truck stop from Buffalo to Burbank, Calif., while the beef on weck--recently ranked one of the top 10 sandwiches in America by Maxim magazine--remains almost exclusively regional? Apparently it's the roll. Restaurant owners such as Staychock describe kummelweck as being "indigenous" to western New York, as though the bread inhabited Buffalo long before humans. For inexplicable reasons, people outside the area seem incapable of re-creating the salty roll. "I don't care where you go in the country, no matter how good the bakery, they just can't get it," Staychock said. "You just can't find them outside western New York." There's at least one restaurant in downtown Chicago that makes a beef on weck--Keefer's Kaffe. But while the sandwich--one of its best sellers--is tasty in its own right, it's just not the same as the Buffalo version. The main problem? Naturally, it's the roll--a little too soft, not quite salty enough. A nice attempt, but it's at best a distant cousin to the true kummelweck. And rather than a straight-up shot of fresh and feisty horseradish, the Chicago beef on weck comes with a "horseradish creme fraiche," which sounds awfully fancy for a meal meant to be served on a sheet of wax paper. Clearly there's no quick solution to the kummelweck conundrum. The rolls can't be shipped from Buffalo bakeries--they last only a day, at best. "They turn hard as rocks," Staychock said. "You could drive a nail with 'em." So the true beef on weck appears destined to remain a creation enjoyed only by western New Yorkers and tourists passing through. A pity, but also, perhaps, appropriate. With the widespread theft of the region's Buffalo wings, outsiders' inability to copy a sandwich of such stature is, to say the least, a fitting bit of kummelweckian karma.
IDBillzFan Posted June 21, 2006 Posted June 21, 2006 So why is it that hot wings can be had at nearly every bar and truck stop from Buffalo to Burbank, Calif., while the beef on weck--recently ranked one of the top 10 sandwiches in America by Maxim magazine--remains almost exclusively regional?He writes this like Maxim carries some type of culinary weight. It barely carries any publication weight.
Catholic Guilt Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 He writes this like Maxim carries some type of culinary weight. It barely carries any publication weight. 711985[/snapback] You are a bitter man. I thought people in LA were laid back?
Pete Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 Funny I just had Beef on Weck at a bar here in Essex CT. I have asked a few times how it ended up on the menu and have yet to get an answer
IDBillzFan Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 You are a bitter man. I thought people in LA were laid back? 712037[/snapback] Yes, and we all have implants and blonde hair and are surfer dudes. My apologies. I just think Maxim magazine commenting on what constitutes good food is something of a stretch for a publication whose sole purpose in life is to give 14-year-olds material to which they can pinch one off before the folks get home. It's Jerry Springer, Howard Stern and Girls Gone Wild pureed in a Cuisinart on the "Ultra Extreme" cycle and spit out into a printed format. And please note: I'm not bitter. I'm opinionated.
Fezmid Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 I would argue that you can't get good wings outside of WNY either... BTW - for those having trouble reading the site, check out http://www.bugmenot.com
Catholic Guilt Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 And please note: I'm not bitter. I'm opinionated. 712047[/snapback] Fair enough...
Rubes Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 "It's not a glamor thing with food here, you just go with a sandwich and a beer." Damn straight. And good food at that. It doesn't surprise me that some restaurant in Chicago couldn't get it right. I lived there for 8 years and they can't even do a frigging hot dog right. I mean, seriously: celery salt? WTF? There's a place out here in Salt Lake that does authentic Philly cheesesteaks and italian ice, and they're awesome. But no good Buffalo food. It's a crime, really.
gmac17 Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 LA - They are ranking a sandwhich, not public policy...
Pete Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 Damn straight. And good food at that. It doesn't surprise me that some restaurant in Chicago couldn't get it right. I lived there for 8 years and they can't even do a frigging hot dog right. I mean, seriously: celery salt? WTF? 712083[/snapback] I love Chicago dogs- Hot peppers, mustard, celery salt, tomato, relish- yummy!
Kelly the Dog Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 I love Chicago dogs- Hot peppers, mustard, celery salt, tomato, relish- yummy! 712092[/snapback] Me too. Some of those Chicago dogs are awesome. If somehow Ted's would make a Chicago dog, it would be incredible.
HopsGuy Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 There's a place out here in Salt Lake that does authentic Philly cheesesteaks and italian ice, and they're awesome. But no good Buffalo food. It's a crime, really. 712083[/snapback] I'm a little surprised by that. I've had good wings in many places. I've had bad ones, too. I'm a bit of a wing snob, but I'm also of the mind that wings just aren't that hard to make. I once had great wings in Seattle. The Philly Cheesesteak, however, is altogether a different animal. The thing that makes it great is the bread. Philly, for some reason, has great bread. (I think I miss the soft pretzels the most.) Duplicating the bread at altitude in SLC seems like quite a challenge. If they've done it, kudos.
stuckincincy Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 See TSW's recipe section for how to make kummelweck rolls.
Beerball Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 I would do dern near anything for a good Beef on Weck for lunch today.
Not a Hamster Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 He writes this like Maxim carries some type of culinary weight. It barely carries any publication weight. 711985[/snapback] Well, it's good for something. Crayon boy has locked himself into a small section of the house. He has water in there but no food. I figured I'd leave him in there for about a month but he been crying and screaming to get out. It was driving me crazy. I decided to slip a couple of Maxims under the door. It's been pretty quiet ever since. Not a peep actually. A periodic moan or two, but no peeps.
IDBillzFan Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 LA - They are ranking a sandwhich, not public policy... 712089[/snapback] Yes, and I was just ranking a magazine. Jeezus, are we not allowed to hate things like Maxim magazine and Howard Stern on a message board anymore? Make ONE little comment about any popular juvenile trend these days...
Rubes Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 I'm a little surprised by that. I've had good wings in many places. I've had bad ones, too. I'm a bit of a wing snob, but I'm also of the mind that wings just aren't that hard to make. I once had great wings in Seattle. The Philly Cheesesteak, however, is altogether a different animal. The thing that makes it great is the bread. Philly, for some reason, has great bread. (I think I miss the soft pretzels the most.) Duplicating the bread at altitude in SLC seems like quite a challenge. If they've done it, kudos. 712173[/snapback] There are some decent wings here, but nothing really that close. Most places here place a heavy emphasis on the sauce. Although I like that, it's also all about how they're cooked. And you just have to have good bleu cheese on the side. None of this watery, ranch-style crap. The woman that owns the place that does the italian ice came from Philly, and she does soft pretzels too. But I have no idea if they are authentic. The cheesesteak place just rocks. It's called "Moochie's Meatballs" and the guy, also from Philly, makes a mean meatball.
shrader Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 That's #1 on my list when I come home in August. My friends always laugh at me when I tell them how good beef on weck is. They have no idea what they're missing out on.
buckeyemike Posted June 22, 2006 Posted June 22, 2006 Buffalo Wild Wings used to have beef on weck (in fact, that's where I first heard of the sandwich), but they no longer have it in this area. I've had the sandwich in Buffalo (yes, it is better there), but I can't find anyplace around here that sells them. Mike
Fezmid Posted June 23, 2006 Posted June 23, 2006 Buffalo Wild Wings used to have beef on weck (in fact, that's where I first heard of the sandwich), but they no longer have it in this area. I've had the sandwich in Buffalo (yes, it is better there), but I can't find anyplace around here that sells them. Mike 712373[/snapback] They're called "BW3" now -- shorthand for "Buffalo Wild Wings and Weck," which is ironic since, as you noted, they don't have Weck anymore... Their wings can be good from time to time, but nowhere near as good as back home CW
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