I got an Oil Change recently

[/dev/null]

Jiffy Lube, Signature Oil Service

 

Same price as last couple times I got an Oil Change. I have friends who do it themself, and when they buy a quart of motor oil, the price has not gone up one red cent for motor oil

 

so if motor oil and gasoline comes from the same dead dinosaur, why hasn't the price of motor oil gone up?

 

i'm just asking...

[EC-Bills]

Jiffy Lube, Signature Oil Service

 

Same price as last couple times I got an Oil Change.  I have friends who do it themself, and when they buy a quart of motor oil, the price has not gone up one red cent for motor oil

 

so if motor oil and gasoline comes from the same dead dinosaur, why hasn't the price of  motor oil gone up?

 

i'm just asking...

420145[/snapback]

 

I think it has to do with the refinery process.

[Live&DieBillsFootball]

I was in a dealership lately that had a sign up saying that due to the high cost of petroleum products they were adding a $3 surcharge to the price of their oil changes. Seems like price gouging to me.

[finknottle]

It's about marketing. Jiffylube is not set up to change its prices every day like a gas station pump. Since most of what you are paying for is service anyway, and people don't like to see that price change, they will let the rising cost of oil eat into their margins a while longer, and look into re-pricing later.

[JimBob2232]

When you charge 45 dollars for an oil change...and the price of oil goes up a dollar...you just eat the increase. Its amazing people still go there to get their 45 dollar oil changes.

[/dev/null]

When you charge 45 dollars for an oil change...and the price of oil goes up a dollar...you just eat the increase.  Its amazing people still go there to get their 45 dollar oil changes.

420602[/snapback]

 

$45 oil change?

 

my last oil change cost less than my last trip to the gas station

[Wacka]

I got a $15.95 one (that was with a $5 off coupon) a few weeks ago.

[Fan in Chicago]

Jiffy Lube, Signature Oil Service

 

Same price as last couple times I got an Oil Change.  I have friends who do it themself, and when they buy a quart of motor oil, the price has not gone up one red cent for motor oil

 

so if motor oil and gasoline comes from the same dead dinosaur, why hasn't the price of  motor oil gone up?

 

i'm just asking...

420145[/snapback]

 

Probably becasue the demand for oil changes has not gone up at the same rate as the demand for gasoline.

[boomerjamhead]

$45 oil change?

 

my last oil change cost less than my last trip to the gas station

420648[/snapback]

 

$45 is less than my last trip to the gas station.

[/dev/null]

$45 is less than my last trip to the gas station.

421824[/snapback]

 

Oil change here: $24.95

12.some gallons of gas that day: $31 and change

[Ghost of BiB]

I run synthetic oil. Yes, it's much more expensive but it's more expensive because it's better for my car, and holds it's properties longer. Especially if you do a lot of city driving. So, whether you change your own or go to the station, buy the top of the line oil filter, run synthetic and change your oil every 6 months instead three, or every 6,000 miles instead of 3,000. If your budget is so tight that you can't afford maybe losing about $100.00 per year over going cheap by doing that, maybe buy 4 less bottles of vodka, or see 4 less movies at the theater. Whatever fires your retros. That's once every three months to not do something you never think about anyway. Is it that hard? If we are all going to get so conservative minded, what I've seen here and elsewhere is excuses for why oil changes don't increase like gas prices. It's still oil. Right there is an overall cheaper way to cut down on oil usage. How many cars and trucks are on the road in the US? Well, when you are wtching the bottom line for a major railroad or trucking company, those cents add up. When you are looking at the SUV in your driveway, where is the impact? I keep hearing all this conversation on alternative sources. You already have one, but it's not sexy like "gas prices". I'm too lazy to look at how much petroleum production is devoted to commercial lubes, but I'm pretty sure it isn't insignificant. When you are talking millions and billions of gallons or bbls, 5-10% isn't insignificant.

[ExiledInIllinois]

I run synthetic oil. Yes, it's much more expensive but it's more expensive because it's better for my car, and holds it's properties longer. Especially if you do a lot of city driving. So, whether you change your own or go to the station, buy the top of the line oil filter, run synthetic and change your oil every 6 months instead three, or every 6,000 miles instead of 3,000. If your budget is so tight that you can't afford maybe losing about $100.00 per year over going cheap by doing that, maybe buy 4 less bottles of vodka, or see 4 less movies at the theater. Whatever fires your retros. That's once every three months to not do something you never think about anyway. Is it that hard? If we are all going to get so conservative minded, what I've seen here and elsewhere is excuses for why oil changes don't increase like gas prices. It's still oil. Right there is an overall cheaper way to cut down on oil usage. How many cars and trucks are on the road in the US? Well, when you are wtching the bottom line for a major railroad or trucking company, those cents add up. When you are looking at the SUV in your driveway, where is the impact? I keep hearing all this conversation on alternative sources. You already have one, but it's not sexy like "gas prices". I'm too lazy to look at how much petroleum production is devoted to commercial lubes, but I'm pretty sure it isn't insignificant. When you are talking millions and billions of gallons or bbls, 5-10% isn't insignificant.

422112[/snapback]

 

So true, so true.

 

On the machinery at the lock we use a food grade lube and hyrdo oil since it may come in contact with the enviro.

[Ghost of BiB]

So true, so true.

 

On the machinery at the lock we use a food grade lube and hyrdo oil since it may come in contact with the enviro.

422388[/snapback]

 

And you can fry your retatta noodles in it.

[VABills]

I run synthetic oil. Yes, it's much more expensive but it's more expensive because it's better for my car, and holds it's properties longer. Especially if you do a lot of city driving. So, whether you change your own or go to the station, buy the top of the line oil filter, run synthetic and change your oil every 6 months instead three, or every 6,000 miles instead of 3,000. If your budget is so tight that you can't afford maybe losing about $100.00 per year over going cheap by doing that, maybe buy 4 less bottles of vodka, or see 4 less movies at the theater. Whatever fires your retros. That's once every three months to not do something you never think about anyway. Is it that hard? If we are all going to get so conservative minded, what I've seen here and elsewhere is excuses for why oil changes don't increase like gas prices. It's still oil. Right there is an overall cheaper way to cut down on oil usage. How many cars and trucks are on the road in the US? Well, when you are wtching the bottom line for a major railroad or trucking company, those cents add up. When you are looking at the SUV in your driveway, where is the impact? I keep hearing all this conversation on alternative sources. You already have one, but it's not sexy like "gas prices". I'm too lazy to look at how much petroleum production is devoted to commercial lubes, but I'm pretty sure it isn't insignificant. When you are talking millions and billions of gallons or bbls, 5-10% isn't insignificant.

422112[/snapback]

 

Same here, Mobil 1 for me. Of course I don't have to but with a turbo in the one car, I don't mess around.

[Fan in Chicago]

Same here, Mobil 1 for me.  Of course I don't have to but with a turbo in the one car, I don't mess around.

422440[/snapback]

 

I agree for turbos but not sure for regular cars. I had a Corolla which I personally did the oil changes with Mobil-1. Started burning oil at 90K miles - not sure it did a whole world of good to that engine as Toyotas are not supposed to burn oil so soon. I babied that car but it was mostly for stop-and-go driving.

[ExiledInIllinois]

I agree for turbos but not sure for regular cars. I had a Corolla which I personally did the oil changes with Mobil-1. Started burning oil at 90K miles - not sure it did a whole world of good to that engine as Toyotas are not supposed to burn oil so soon. I babied that car but it was mostly for stop-and-go driving.

422657[/snapback]

 

Toyotas aren't supossed to sludge or gel oil either... The stop-and-go probably the hardest on it?

 

I am sure the manufacturer outlines what is normal oil consumption over the course of an oil change... A quart over the course of 4k is probably not uncommon... Yet, it is surprising.

[stuckincincy]

Toyotas aren't supossed to sludge or gel oil either... The stop-and-go probably the hardest on it?

 

I am sure the manufacturer outlines what is normal oil consumption over the course of an oil change... A quart over the course of 4k is probably not uncommon... Yet, it is surprising.

422853[/snapback]

 

Actually, Toyota had a huge problem with the 4-cyl and 6-cyl motors in their small truck and Camry line - 1996 - 2001 IIRC. What they did was thin out water passages in order to increase combustion chamber temps - good for economy, a more complete burn.

 

But what happened is that that the inevitible low pockets in the cylinder head retained oil (all cyl. heads do this), but the relatively higher temps served to over time, cook that oil (didn't matter if you were a frequent changer of sump oil), so an "arteriosclorisis", so to speak, started to occur which blocked up this or that oil passage, leading to failures due to lack of adequate lubrication.

 

Toyota was not good in their response, btw. You can look it up.

[stuckincincy]

I run synthetic oil. Yes, it's much more expensive but it's more expensive because it's better for my car, and holds it's properties longer. Especially if you do a lot of city driving. So, whether you change your own or go to the station, buy the top of the line oil filter, run synthetic and change your oil every 6 months instead three, or every 6,000 miles instead of 3,000.

422112[/snapback]

 

I use syn-oil, Mobil 1. The chief difference is the additive package - I last worked for an outfit that made dialkyldithiophospates, which impart the anti-wear and anti-oxidative functionality. The designed oil base of the syn stuff certainly helps, also - it provides the superior cold-crank performance, which is the typical high-wear situation. And unless you have a real good reason, if your manual says use 5W-30 or whatever, do not be a smart guy and decide that 20W-50 is the way to go. Especially so with synthetics.

 

The 3K changeout for normal oils is a bit of a marketing campaign. I'd go for 6K or so with "conventional" oil. Syn, 10K or once a year. Any vehicle that sits without being operated every week or so will have crankcase moisture and acid build-up problems - the factory recommendations of replacing oil under those conditions are valid.

 

Regarding syn oil and conventional oil:

 

1. Don't introduce syn oil to your motor until you've got 10K or so mileage - the increased lubricity throught the engine revolution range may not allow for the proper seating of piston rings and valve guides. Back in da-old-days, that was the purpose of the so-called "break-in" oil .

 

2. With any crankcase oil, do not perform an early oil change - the grit that is ground off the high and rough spots serve to hone all the moving, lubricated parts of the motor for proper long-tearm seating. I'd suggest about 2,000 miles before that first change.

 

3. If you change your own oil, avoid Fram filters unless you pay the 5 or 6 bucks for their "premium" series. Their most widely-marketed line are poorly constructed and meet a price point. Avoid the special-branded stuff like "STP" filters. Motorcraft, Purolator, AC Delco otc brands...or any factory parts counter items are fine IMO.

 

4. When changing filters, glug an ounce of so of oil into the filter, take some oil and rub it on the new filter's gasket, and be sure to inspect the removed filter so to see if the old gasket has stuck to the block. This happens with some frequency, especially in the quick change outfits, and you WILL have a leak if the gaskets are doubled up.

 

5. Turbo and supercharged motors and diesels have their specific requirements. Follow the factory specs to the letter. After correct break-in, their particular duty requirements may call for more frequent changes.

[Fan in Chicago]

I use syn-oil, Mobil 1. The chief difference is the additive package - I last worked for an outfit that made dialkyldithiophospates, which impart the anti-wear and anti-oxidative functionality. The designed oil base of the syn stuff certainly helps, also - it provides the superior cold-crank performance, which is the typical high-wear situation. And unless you have a real good reason, if your manual says use 5W-30 or whatever, do not be a smart guy and decide that 20W-50 is the way to go. Especially so with synthetics.

 

422906[/snapback]

 

Nice post ! Thanx.

[Crap Throwing Monkey]

I use syn-oil, Mobil 1. The chief difference is the additive package - I last worked for an outfit that made dialkyldithiophospates, which impart the anti-wear and anti-oxidative functionality. The designed oil base of the syn stuff certainly helps, also - it provides the superior cold-crank performance, which is the typical high-wear situation. And unless you have a real good reason, if your manual says use 5W-30 or whatever, do not be a smart guy and decide that 20W-50 is the way to go. Especially so with synthetics.

 

The 3K changeout for normal oils is a bit of a marketing campaign. I'd go for 6K or so with "conventional" oil. Syn, 10K or once a year. Any vehicle that sits without being operated every week or so will have crankcase moisture and acid build-up problems - the factory recommendations of replacing oil under those conditions are valid.

 

Regarding syn oil and conventional oil:

 

1. Don't introduce syn oil to your motor until you've got 10K or so mileage - the increased lubricity throught the engine revolution range may not allow for the proper seating of piston rings and valve guides. Back in da-old-days, that was the purpose of the so-called "break-in" oil .

 

2. With any crankcase oil, do not perform an early oil change - the grit that is ground off the high and rough spots serve to hone all the moving, lubricated parts of the motor for proper long-tearm seating.  I'd suggest about 2,000 miles before that first change.

 

3. If you change your own oil, avoid Fram filters unless you pay the 5 or 6 bucks for their "premium" series. Their most widely-marketed line are poorly constructed and meet a price point.  Avoid the special-branded stuff like "STP" filters. Motorcraft, Purolator, AC Delco otc brands...or any factory parts counter items are fine IMO.

 

4. When changing filters, glug an ounce of so of oil into the filter, take some oil and rub it on the new filter's gasket, and be sure to inspect the removed filter so to see if the old gasket has stuck to the block. This happens with some frequency, especially in the quick change outfits, and you WILL have a leak if the gaskets are doubled up.

 

5. Turbo and supercharged motors and diesels have their specific requirements. Follow the factory specs to the letter. After  correct break-in, their particular  duty requirements may call for more frequent changes.

422906[/snapback]

 

I refuse to believe that "lubricity" is a word. In fact, I hereby declare it to NOT be a word. So from now on, please use "lubicrousness" in its stead.