PIZ Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 I have to stop the slight seepage first (hopefully by using FAST PLUG & DRY LOK PAINT), but for the family TV area I am thinking of putting a rubber carpet pad under the carpet, so the carpet doesn't rot if moisture is present. Then, in the bathroom, which has a cement floor (which is about 8 inches higher than the rest of the cement floor) that is painted I'm not exactly sure what to do. Any suggestions? Maybe put the rubber pad and carpet in the bathroom too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXBILLSFAN Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 If the ceiling is high enough, you could put in a raised floor. I did that with my former home in Jersey which had water-in-the basement problems (even with 2 sump pumps and a moisture barrier between the block walls and the paneling, I was never sure if it would stay completely dry), and it worked beautifully. The contractor put down some sort of galvanized 1"x2"s or 2"x2"s a foot or two apart, then put a regular plywood floor on top of them, and then carpeting. It really wasn't that expensive, either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Gross Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 If the ceiling is high enough, you could put in a raised floor. I did that with my former home in Jersey which had water-in-the basement problems (even with 2 sump pumps and a moisture barrier between the block walls and the paneling, I was never sure if it would stay completely dry), and it worked beautifully. The contractor put down some sort of galvanized 1"x2"s or 2"x2"s a foot or two apart, then put a regular plywood floor on top of them, and then carpeting. It really wasn't that expensive, either. 392560[/snapback] If you want to do it quick and easy (of course at the expense of cost), you might want to look at DRICore subfloors. I know Home Depot has them. A "done for you" raised subfloor system that assembles quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PIZ Posted July 28, 2005 Author Share Posted July 28, 2005 If you want to do it quick and easy (of course at the expense of cost), you might want to look at DRICore subfloors. I know Home Depot has them. A "done for you" raised subfloor system that assembles quickly. 392570[/snapback] Yeah, I wonder what this stuff costs? Have you used it? Do you then put a normal carpet pad on top? dricore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuckincincy Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 I have to stop the slight seepage first (hopefully by using FAST PLUG & DRY LOK PAINT), but for the family TV area I am thinking of putting a rubber carpet pad under the carpet, so the carpet doesn't rot if moisture is present. Then, in the bathroom, which has a cement floor (which is about 8 inches higher than the rest of the cement floor) that is painted I'm not exactly sure what to do. Any suggestions? Maybe put the rubber pad and carpet in the bathroom too? 392539[/snapback] Is the seepage from somewhere in the slab, walls, or their juncture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PIZ Posted July 28, 2005 Author Share Posted July 28, 2005 Is the seepage from somewhere in the slab, walls, or their juncture? 392606[/snapback] Where the walls meet the floor. Seepage, but it is minimal, but just enough to annoy me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffaloboyinATL Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 A friend of mine did etched and finished concrete floors in her basement, it was pretty inexpensive and turned out great. They actually carve into the concrete and seal it so that it looks kind of like slate tiles. Here's a link to some examples: http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/in...ce=gooaw&kw=22a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuckincincy Posted July 28, 2005 Share Posted July 28, 2005 Where the walls meet the floor. Seepage, but it is minimal, but just enough to annoy me. 392613[/snapback] Dry-lok cement and (usually) the water-barrier paints require a perfectly clean surface (no surprise there). I'm assuming then that you have access to the juncture. A question: Does the basement have a "slight" pitch and a floor drain? I know those are hings that has been omitted in recent construction. Pity. Water comes in because the hydraulic pressure in the surrounding soil is stronger than the sealing measures can resist. The knowledgable folks anways, correctly, stress the importance of grading. Building contractors sometimes miss that bit of enlightenment. And with 5 grand plus, you can seal the subsurface walls, re-grade, run drain tile etc. Done properly, it will usually work. Now, IF-IF-IF repeat IF-IF-IF you DO have a floor drain somewhere in the basement, try this: drill down through the slab with a masonry bit. Prep the drilled hole, and using a good grade of silicone sealer, install a small copper or pvc elbow to which you have previously attached a hose to that will run into that drain. 3/16"" I.D. should be sufficient. There will be a lot of pressure relief. There is also a thing called a standpipe which can accomplish the goal. But don't do that unless you are big business with a reinforced foundation and have architects on staff. You might have to do some remedial sealing at the foundation wall-slab juncture. "Finished" basements are a modern affectation - our forefathers generally let them flow as they may. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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