Lawn Advice

[Johnny Hammersticks]

I spent a bunch of money last summer having the lawn re-done in my backyard.  The previous owners had 3 huge dogs that dug giant holes all over the place, and there was a 6’x6’ hole where a shed used to be.

 

Anyway, I successfully grew a nice lawn back there last summer after it was excavated.  I’ve never taken much care of my lawn before, but I’d like to put more effort in this spring/summer.   

 

What do you “lawn guys” do to your grass in the spring?  I’ve heard of weed and feed.  What else do you use?  I have a bunch of weeds in my front lawn that I’d like to be rid of.  Any recommendations for products?  Weed killer...fertilizer?  Should I re-seed the entire lawn?  Anything else that would make my lawn look better?  Also, when do you all start this process?   Is it too early now?  Thanks in advance for any recommendations.

[DC Tom]

46 minutes ago, Johnny Hammersticks said:

I spent a bunch of money last summer having the lawn re-done in my backyard.  The previous owners had 3 huge dogs that dug giant holes all over the place, and there was a 6’x6’ hole where a shed used to be.

 

Anyway, I successfully grew a nice lawn back there last summer after it was excavated.  I’ve never taken much care of my lawn before, but I’d like to put more effort in this spring/summer.   

 

What do you “lawn guys” do to your grass in the spring?  I’ve heard of weed and feed.  What else do you use?  I have a bunch of weeds in my front lawn that I’d like to be rid of.  Any recommendations for products?  Weed killer...fertilizer?  Should I re-seed the entire lawn?  Anything else that would make my lawn look better?  Also, when do you all start this process?   Is it too early now?  Thanks in advance for any recommendations.

 

I lay in a hammock, drink beer, and watch someone else do the yard work.

[SlimShady'sSpaceForce]

1 hour ago, Johnny Hammersticks said:

I spent a bunch of money last summer having the lawn re-done in my backyard.  The previous owners had 3 huge dogs that dug giant holes all over the place, and there was a 6’x6’ hole where a shed used to be.

 

Anyway, I successfully grew a nice lawn back there last summer after it was excavated.  I’ve never taken much care of my lawn before, but I’d like to put more effort in this spring/summer.   

 

What do you “lawn guys” do to your grass in the spring?  I’ve heard of weed and feed.  What else do you use?  I have a bunch of weeds in my front lawn that I’d like to be rid of.  Any recommendations for products?  Weed killer...fertilizer?  Should I re-seed the entire lawn?  Anything else that would make my lawn look better?  Also, when do you all start this process?   Is it too early now?  Thanks in advance for any recommendations.

Weed and feed.   Feed and weed.  

 

Water water water.  

 

Repeat.   

I do a big bag of wed and feed then use the gallon spray for crabgrass control once a month.    

 

[plenzmd1]

Sticks you live in vermont correct? I would contact your local Coop Extension to see what they say for your climate/location. What I need to do in Richmond is even pretty dramatically different than what I did in DC, and we are only 100 miles apart. Type of grass, water, soil conditions all relevant. Also, if you want to just go to the local garden store, bring a soil sample and they can tell ya what the soil may need and how best plan your year-round activities. 

 

For example, in Richmond aerating and overseeding is only effective in the fall, but it may be up north aerating and overseeing works like a charm in early spring

 

Then you will need to decide natural vs chemical.

[Augie]

23 hours ago, plenzmd1 said:

Sticks you live in vermont correct? I would contact your local Coop Extension to see what they say for your climate/location. What I need to do in Richmond is even pretty dramatically different than what I did in DC, and we are only 100 miles apart. Type of grass, water, soil conditions all relevant. Also, if you want to just go to the local garden store, bring a soil sample and they can tell ya what the soil may need and how best plan your year-round activities. 

 

For example, in Richmond aerating and overseeding is only effective in the fall, but it may be up north aerating and overseeing works like a charm in early spring

 

Then you will need to decide natural vs chemical.

 

This is great advise, especially the bolded. They will often test the ph of your soil and tell you what you need. It varies greatly even within the same region and can require different treatments.

 

We are on our third back yard sod in 8 years in this house. We removed some trees for more sun, changed some drainage and went to a hybrid zoysia grass. I think this new guy actually knows his stuff. he had a great overall design. If this fails, I’m looking at the artificial stuff. Really. They have some really good fake stuff these days. I have a tiny back yard so doing it right once would beat doing it wrong a fourth time. 

Edited April 2, 2018 by Augie

[T&C]

This is the way to go, you will know within 48 hours where you missed with the broadcaster: 

 

https://www.milorganite.com/using-milorganite/what-is-milorganite

[FappyTheClown]

I had mine paved over. Now I never have to worry about it.

[Rob's House]

If you put rock salt in your spreader it will help to keep the weeds away.

[Gugny]

Start off with the Scotts 4 step program.

 

If you miss the first step (Crabgrass preventer) you're effed.  Gotta get it down as soon as the ground is thawed.  If you see lilacs blooming, you're too late.

 

And you have to water every day, otherwise you'll just burn your lawn.

[boyst]

5 hours ago, Johnny Hammersticks said:

I spent a bunch of money last summer having the lawn re-done in my backyard.  The previous owners had 3 huge dogs that dug giant holes all over the place, and there was a 6’x6’ hole where a shed used to be.

 

Anyway, I successfully grew a nice lawn back there last summer after it was excavated.  I’ve never taken much care of my lawn before, but I’d like to put more effort in this spring/summer.   

 

What do you “lawn guys” do to your grass in the spring?  I’ve heard of weed and feed.  What else do you use?  I have a bunch of weeds in my front lawn that I’d like to be rid of.  Any recommendations for products?  Weed killer...fertilizer?  Should I re-seed the entire lawn?  Anything else that would make my lawn look better?  Also, when do you all start this process?   Is it too early now?  Thanks in advance for any recommendations.

where are you?

[boyst]

I know a thing or two about this type of thing.

 

If you want the easiest method to improve your lawn it is the same as the most complicated.  It is plain and simple.

 

Did you know your taxes fund experts in your county who know everything about the land you live on and can get information from databases about the soil on your land far more than you'd ever know?  If you really want to get in to the advanced level of this you're far better off talking to your local agricultural extension office than just reading this post.  But, there are many, many factors in your soil that matter.  Someone just telling you name brand X or name brand Y is great may have some credibility but thats not how to raise good grass and you'll end up throwing money at your soil without knowing what is going on. Cation exchange capacity, the calcium content of your soil, the pH of your soil and so many other factors come in to play once you know the climate you live in and the soil type you have (Federal Database).

 

Your first step is pretty easy.  Go down to the local agricultural extension office and speak to them.  Get a few boxes, listen to their instructions because they're not as easy as you'd think, and take your soils.  Your state school with measure them and provide you with the results.  They will look like this.  Once you get those results you can take them to the ag extension, hit me up, or just study yourself up on what to do.

 

The cheapest thing will be getting your pH adjusted to be correct for your soil type.  Once that is done you can make sure the water soluble calcium level is adequate, since calcium is the building block of the chemistry.  Your next step is chemistry, feeding the soil the nutrients needed, essentially NPK.  Nitrogen, Phosphate, Potash.  A lot of people simply throw nitrogen at the soil and that will do alright, but you can also waste a lot of money on that as most fescue can only absorb about 55-65 lbs. per acre.  Quick note: A 50# bag of fertilizer is not going to contain it's rating of 17-17-17 for example, it will be one half of that.  The labels you see are based off of a 100lbs content.  And if yo're going for a good fertilizer spend the money on the 14-14-14, as it is a non-mixed fertilizer that is much better.  Anyway, the soil results will tell you what to feed your soil.  And if you have areas where the dog pens were, or maybe there was a garden 10 years ago, or any specific area, even if it was small, single that out.  The results will be different.  And ideally you will get every inch of your soil to the same level of nutritional supplementation that you can apply nitrogen evenly twice a year over a 2 to 3 week cycle.

 

If you want to have fun, look up my farm and look where I wasn't paying attention.  You can see on GOogle earth the wide swathes I missed whilst likely texting or drumming the beats to Rush or Def Leppard.

 

To quote a great farmer - "We don't raise cattle.  We raise good grass by farming the soil." and another "we feed the girls under the soil to take care of those on top of it."

 

[Chandemonium]

Mow once a week and it gets water when it rains. When mowing make sure you take a beer break every half hour, every 20 minutes if temperature is 90 or higher. This is assuming a push mower. If you have a rider equipped with a cupholder you may choose to have a riding around beer instead of the beer break if desired.

[BuffaloBud]

Put down Vigoro spring (fertilizer and crabgrass preventer) application about a week a go.  Last weeks rain got it into the soil.

 

I cut the grass high (2.5 - 3in) tall.  Keeps the root system cool and the weeds that come up down.  For those that come up I make a mental note where those are and hand pull or cut out with knife from cheap leathermans tool.  I alternate directions when I cut so the grass doesn’t get a pattern set in it.

 

I’ll fertilizer / weed in fall.  I may spot spray weeds if I see something getting out of control.  That’s it.

 

As far as the Ag coop extension office, many have good info on line.

[boyst]

4 hours ago, plenzmd1 said:

Sticks you live in vermont correct? I would contact your local Coop Extension to see what they say for your climate/location. What I need to do in Richmond is even pretty dramatically different than what I did in DC, and we are only 100 miles apart. Type of grass, water, soil conditions all relevant. Also, if you want to just go to the local garden store, bring a soil sample and they can tell ya what the soil may need and how best plan your year-round activities. 

 

For example, in Richmond aerating and overseeding is only effective in the fall, but it may be up north aerating and overseeing works like a charm in early spring

 

Then you will need to decide natural vs chemical.

i should have read the thread first!

1 minute ago, BuffaloBud said:

Put down Vigoro spring (fertilizer and crabgrass preventer) application about a week a go.  Last weeks rain got it into the soil.

 

I cut the grass high (2.5 - 3in) tall.  Keeps the root system cool and the weeds that come up down.  For those that come up I make a mental note where those are and hand pull or cut out with knife from cheap leathermans tool.  I alternate directions when I cut so the grass doesn’t get a pattern set in it.

 

I’ll fertilizer / weed in fall.  I may spot spray weeds if I see something getting out of control.  That’s it.

 

As far as the Ag coop extension office, many have good info on line.

you'll not get what you need without going in person.  they're amazing.

you will instantly have access to a half dozen or more experts to help you from soil and water to horticulture.

 

 

anyway, as far as spraying for pests - don't do that!  with proper soil you won't have pests - the grubs which attract moles, for example, will be gone.

 

the sprays that kill grubs kill other bacteria and bugs that make good things happen in the soil.  and bees.

21 minutes ago, Chandemonium said:

Mow once a week and it gets water when it rains. When mowing make sure you take a beer break every half hour, every 20 minutes if temperature is 90 or higher. This is assuming a push mower. If you have a rider equipped with a cupholder you may choose to have a riding around beer instead of the beer break if desired.

mowing is very important.  most lawn mowers from the big stores are not good enoguh; they cut too short.  4" is perfect for fescue.

 

spaking of other things - clover is not bad.  it creates nitrogen for your soil as a legume

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/much-nitrogen-clover-put-soil-78160.html

"Nitrogen is accumulated in small nodules on the roots of clover as they grow. When the roots die, nitrogen is released into the soil for other plants to use. Perennial clovers release nitrogen when they are mowed, because a portion of the root system dies off when the plants are cut. For maximum nitrogen production in annual clovers, they should be tilled into the soil when they are in full flower but before seed has begun to form."

 

mow when there are plenty of flowers on the clover, waiting a few days if possible.

if you do put in clover make sure it is inoculated.  maybe even spend a few bucks to do it again its cheap

4 hours ago, JR in Pittsburgh said:

I will be curious what people say. I need some help. My lawn is a total disaster.

 

we built our home and the builder basically dumped crap and rocks all under the ground and put virtually no top soil on top. So our grass quality has always been garbage.  I am almost at the point of just re-doing the entire thing and hauling in a ton of soil. 

find a compost facility or mulch place and ask if they have soil starter.  it's a mix of mulch and soil.

 

put this on your soil in a 1 to 2" thickness if you want to start from scratch.  if you want to go high dollar, put in sod once it is in.  but the soil starter, especially if it has runoff protection, will due very well.

5 hours ago, ShadyBillsFan said:

Weed and feed.   Feed and weed.  

 

Water water water.  

 

Repeat.   

I do a big bag of wed and feed then use the gallon spray for crabgrass control once a month.    

 

you're over doing it and wasting a lot of money.

[Steptide]

If any of you looking for help live in the rochester area, I work at a lawn care company and can help you guys out if you like. 

 

As stated by others, mow tall (3-5 inches) all year long and be sure to water regularly when the soil is dry. 

[Johnny Hammersticks]

I live in central Vermont near Middlebury.

 

Yeesh, thank you for all the great suggestions, but this seems like a lot more work than I had anticipated ?

 

First of all, my wife and I don’t work from late June until late August, and we travel a lot in the summer, so daily watering is out of the question.  We get a good bit of rain here during the summer, however, and if we ever get a long stretch of dry weather I usually am good about breaking out the sprinklers.

 

I think I’m looking for something like what Gugny suggested, but sounds like I need to spread the weed killer like tomorrow, as the ground is beginning to thaw.  Couple other products suggested here that I will look into.

 

Thanks all...

[Augie]

4 hours ago, FappyTheClown said:

I had mine paved over. Now I never have to worry about it.

 

How often do you have to mow it now????

[ExiledInIllinois]

[Augie]

49 minutes ago, Johnny Hammersticks said:

I live in central Vermont near Middlebury.

 

Yeesh, thank you for all the great suggestions, but this seems like a lot more work than I had anticipated ?

 

First of all, my wife and I don’t work from late June until late August, and we travel a lot in the summer, so daily watering is out of the question.  We get a good bit of rain here during the summer, however, and if we ever get a long stretch of dry weather I usually am good about breaking out the sprinklers.

 

I think I’m looking for something like what Gugny suggested, but sounds like I need to spread the weed killer like tomorrow, as the ground is beginning to thaw.  Couple other products suggested here that I will look into.

 

Thanks all...

 

If your lawn is just now beginning to thaw, your lawn may not be your biggest problem.   

Edited April 2, 2018 by Augie

[ExiledInIllinois]

I do everything outside the fert schedule... Just hire a lawn service, they will keep it on schedule.  Not too big here, maybe 1/4 acre... Only 30 bucks per application 4 times a year.  No weeds, bugs, etc... Looks green.

Edited April 2, 2018 by ExiledInIllinois