Chef Jim Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 (edited) And that person always had a car payment Not true. That's why I asked how long he's had his car. If he was forward thinking he would have been socking away a few bucks each month and be looking at buying something better and newer with cash. Edited September 30, 2015 by Chef Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 OK, I've got a question. Should I get my oil/filter changed at a (Honda) dealer or someplace else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Jim Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 OK, I've got a question. Should I get my oil/filter changed at a (Honda) dealer or someplace else? I suggest you get it done at the BMW dealer. Oh wait. You have a Honda. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 I suggest you get it done at the BMW dealer. Oh wait. You have a Honda. Yup. Don't need to compensate for anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Yup. Don't need to compensate for anything. I don't know! I always thought like that... But being a BMW owner, I can see where other cars (especially the Asian market) just don't measure up. There is something solid about their vehicles where the Jap cars are very "tinny." I thought it was a show @ one time... Blah, blah, blah... All vehicles the same... It's just the roundel, etc... You move up the whole vehicle line and the engineering is there throughout. It's the bells and whistles that add up. A much different approach w/some of the other companies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beerbelly Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 We have a Honda CRV 2003 with 175,000 miles on it. As I was driving today the transmission slipped and never came back to work, my guess, rebuild in the near future, $2500. So the question is, rebuild or cut bait? We don't drive that much, we have one car, and I have always been of the mindset of repairing as a better fiscal option to buying another vehicle either used or new- at the end of the day, drive it till it falls apart. I take excellent care of vehicles, part of the reason why they tend to last a long time.. So, repair or move on? The rebuild comes warranted, and and we're already saving a bunch by ditching our other vehicle. Give me your thoughts. This is old, but I would look into it: 2003 Honda CR-V Recalls Recall ID # 63159 - POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Full Details Recall Date JUL 29, 2003 Component POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Model Affected CR-V Potential Units Affected 247019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Jim Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 This is old, but I would look into it:2003 Honda CR-V Recalls Recall ID # 63159 - POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Full Details Recall Date JUL 29, 2003 Component POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Model Affected CR-V Potential Units Affected 247019 Are you Beerball cousin? And are you guys related to: Beerbreath Beerfarts Beerbottle Beercan Beerpong ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 I don't know! I always thought like that... But being a BMW owner, I can see where other cars (especially the Asian market) just don't measure up. There is something solid about their vehicles where the Jap cars are very "tinny." I thought it was a show @ one time... Blah, blah, blah... All vehicles the same... It's just the roundel, etc... You move up the whole vehicle line and the engineering is there throughout. It's the bells and whistles that add up. A much different approach w/some of the other companies. There's no doubt that BMWs and the like are exceptionally well-made cars. I grew up driving them, Porsches, Cadillacs, etc. But as an adult, I'm looking for a well-made car, like Hondas are, without spending a lot of money. But that's just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Jim Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Yup. Don't need to compensate for anything. Neither do I. I just like driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark80 Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 (edited) 175k is getting up there. I would have to believe that more expensive repairs are in your not too distant future. I would replace it now. Go to a car selling site and look for cars with a lot of miles on them and see if there are lot of a certain make / model / year. If something sticks out, I would look for that same car with a lot less miles on it. The thought process is that if there are a lot of people selling that car with high mileage, well, then there ARE a lot of those cars that make it to high mileage and if you get one with under 100k on it, then you can get a lot of use out of that car still. Just an idea for you to consider. Edited October 4, 2015 by Mark80 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 (edited) 175k is getting up there. I would have to believe that more expensive repairs are in your not too distant future. I would replace it now. Go to a car selling site and look for cars with a lot of miles on them and see if there are lot of a certain make / model / year. If something sticks out, I would look for that same car with a lot less miles on it. The thought process is that if there are a lot of people selling that car with high mileage, well, then there ARE a lot of those cars that make it to high mileage and if you get one with under 100k on it, then you can get a lot of use out of that car still. Just an idea for you to consider. Spot on... Of course, you can always fix. My Chrysler's subframe/engine cradle was rotting out on my 2006. Chrysler extended the warranty to 150k on 2004 and 2005's after the sh*tstorm created in the media about the Pacifica... NO 2006. Mine was built in 2005 w/I suspect the same part! No dice. I let them know about the problem @ 125k when I caught it... I welded it for 400 bucks and dumped that whale below 200k. Even a used engine cradle installed is going to run over 2k... And that doesn't mean the used part has the same problem. Fug Chrysler... I went European now... I will still stick w/Jeep though. My 2006 TJ has a full frame... Not a bit of rot. Now some of the YJ's (1987-1995, "square headlights") have frame rot issue... BUT after 20-30 years! Not 10! Edited October 4, 2015 by ExiledInIllinois Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkyMannn Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 And that person always had a car payment I didn't say THAT. At some point in a car's life you start pouring a lot of money into it. More than it is worth. Just before that that it is time to call it quits and move on. Of course it is hard to figure when that time is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 (edited) I didn't say THAT. At some point in a car's life you start pouring a lot of money into it. More than it is worth. Just before that that it is time to call it quits and move on. Of course it is hard to figure when that time isExactly! Yep! Every car has a service life. The manu usually pegs it @ 100-150k. Of course you can go much more. Then there are some vehicles that are easier to fix the big stuff and basically rebuild the mutha from ground up, like my old style Jeep (body tub on frame)... Yet new style (JK) Jeeps are body on panel. Many reasons why the are moving away from the old framed vehicles, take you pick how you want to view the puzzle. My Chrysler? I loved it it but had to cut and run on the subframe issue. If that was the Jeep in 10 or 20 years, I could have easily ordered another. Heck, you can go to a place like Quadratec and build from ground up any model year Jeep you want going back to the 1940's... Just find anything with a VIN, even if it is just the VIN plate only hanging on... LoL.. Probably why you don't see Jeeps (CJ's, Wranglers) in junk yards... Parts are too damn standardized over the last 70 years and EVERYTHING literally lives on in some other form. Why those vehicles hold their value. My 2006 TJ bought brand new in the same year was 22k... I can still get @ least 12K now. My 45K 2006 Chrysler I barely got 5K for it this past June. Do you think dealers and manus want that? Of course not! It's why I am hanging onto that dinosaur Jeep TJ! It will never leave the family! Unless up in flames and still, I will part it out! Edited October 6, 2015 by ExiledInIllinois Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Just an update, because I know you were all losing sleep over it, but I took it to the Honda dealer. It cost me $43 for the oil change, filter change, tire rotation and fluid top up. And it was done while I was at work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Just an update, because I know you were all losing sleep over it, but I took it to the Honda dealer. It cost me $43 for the oil change, filter change, tire rotation and fluid top up. And it was done while I was at work. What's Honda's interval? Old Toyota's are known to sludge up, better follow that up every 3,000. MINI is once a year or 10,000 miles. BMW is 8,000. That's a lot more oil in the enviro @ 3,000 ;-) ;-) I just follow the onboard computer, both vehicles don't even have a dipstick... Besides the one behind the wheel. ;-) ;-) My BMW and MINI that would be covered FREE for the first 4 years. Sure I paid 5,000 over a loaded Honda for the BMW... BUT if I blow out a wheel or rim, that's covered too... I dealed w/them to throw in tire/rim protection in. AND they always do a courtesy wash too. :-P Besides, Europe has better trade agreements w/the US... Oh wait, "our savior" just changed all that w/Asia. :-P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 What's Honda's interval? Old Toyota's are known to sludge up, better follow that up every 3,000. MINI is once a year or 10,000 miles. BMW is 8,000. That's a lot more oil in the enviro @ 3,000 ;-) ;-) I just follow the onboard computer, both vehicles don't even have a dipstick... Besides the one behind the wheel. ;-) ;-) My BMW and MINI that would be covered FREE for the first 4 years. Sure I paid 5,000 over a loaded Honda for the BMW... BUT if I blow out a wheel or rim, that's covered too... I dealed w/them to throw in tire/rim protection in. AND they always do a courtesy wash too. :-P Besides, Europe has better trade agreements w/the US... Oh wait, "our savior" just changed all that w/Asia. :-P The vehicle signals you to change it at 15% "oil life." I got it to 10% before I could get it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That's No Moon Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Anybody have any large fundamental problems with Mazda CX-9s? I like the way they look and drive and can get a great deal on one right now but I've never owned a Mazda. I've had a Toyota and a Honda and have been underwhelmed by the build quality. The Toyota ate oxygen sensors and the interior trim fell apart. The Honda body panels are egg fragile and it is now on it's 3rd set of ignition coils (I got my money back on the first replacement set when they all STB in a month - yes I bought Honda parts, they are made by Hitachi actually.) I have a Chrysler now and hate it, my father has a Dodge and it's crap too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) Anybody have any large fundamental problems with Mazda CX-9s? I like the way they look and drive and can get a great deal on one right now but I've never owned a Mazda. I've had a Toyota and a Honda and have been underwhelmed by the build quality. The Toyota ate oxygen sensors and the interior trim fell apart. The Honda body panels are egg fragile and it is now on it's 3rd set of ignition coils (I got my money back on the first replacement set when they all STB in a month - yes I bought Honda parts, they are made by Hitachi actually.) I have a Chrysler now and hate it, my father has a Dodge and it's crap too. My mother owned a 1981 GLC. She never checked the oil and it ran! One time she asked a guy that was leaving the supermarket if he would check the oil in that GLC (Great Little Car)... All she could hear is my old man's voice in her head: "You better keep an eye on the oil." Whatever that meant to her! LoL... So this stranger check the oil and there is not one drop on the dipstick... LoL... He's like: "Lady you better put some oil in this engine." She's like: "How do I do that? LoL EDIT: Only problem w/that GLC was the floorboards rotted out in 1985... 4 years! You can see the road below your feet... BUT nothing an old road sign couldn't fix! Anyway... The car ran like a champ. My first car was a 1979 Mazda RX-7. My RX-7 had a Porsche type faring on the front (not the typical RX-7 "front point") and BBS style gold rims. That was a cool little car for an 17 year old! Rotary (Wankel) engine, 5-speed... Drove like a go-kart... That's why I love my Cooper S now, the Cooper S reminds me of that first car... Except just a "tad" bit more refined the new F56 MINI is!... No semi-manual choke and no rotary engine backfire sounding like shot gun blasts when you start it up in the cold! Mazda is a great company, even if it is was partnered w/Ford to 2010. Edited October 8, 2015 by ExiledInIllinois Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jobu Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 If you can do the removal and install yourself, I say rebuild. If you can't it is a much harder decision. Labor will kill you on that. I just gave my daughter a 2000 Civic with 178,000 miles on it. Perfect first car for her. Parts are cheap it is easy to work on. If it dropped the transmission tomorrow, I would pull it and take it in for the core charge and get a rebuild. How is the rust on it too? Don't those 2003 CRV's have some substructure rust issues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) How is the rust on it too? Don't those 2003 CRV's have some substructure rust issues? Yeah... That's the issue w/many modern unibody Northern vehicles approaching 200k. My 2006 Chrysler's subframe/engine craddle was rotting away. I professionally welded it for pennies vs. a new/used install... I can weld, but wouldn't trust something like that especially w/my wife mostly driving the vehicle... So I dumped it while the weld was still brand new (I coated the inside w/oil and Herculined it too). Myself, I'd have no problem driving it forever... If that engine would have crashed on the ground while I was driving? I could live with that... BUT, my wife... I am not sure how she would have reacted . With me, I would have chased after Chrysler... I got all the emails, documents telling me the rot was safe and that they weren't going to honor the special warranty as the did with the 2004's and 2005's... I just didn't want to think about it or having a totally puked vehicle. Edited October 8, 2015 by ExiledInIllinois Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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