plenzmd1 Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Gents, I am as capable at handyman chit as Marrone was at making friends and influencing people. That said, i have a copper pipe to repair and whilst searching the interwebs for most efficient and correct way to do so, found these things called Sharkbites. Looks easy enough even for a dolt like me to do, and most of the stuff i have read gives them favorable remarks. Any experience with these things out there? Any gotchas or tips to installing etc? http://www.sharkbite.com/how-to/how-to-fix-copper-pipe-copper-pipe-leak-repair/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DasNootz Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 I use them all the time. They're great, and if you're not into soldering, they're worth the hefty price tag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillsFanM.D. Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 I haven't used the sharkbite brand but I've used "push to connect end caps" that I bought at lowes (Blue hawk brand I think). I used them to cap off copper lines I had cut while gutting a bathroom during a remodel. They are the same technology as shown in your video and worked perfectly for me. I never had a single drop of leaking at the caps. I was a bit anxious after installing them....and then turning the water main back on. As I said, however, they worked great. Easy to remove when you're done (though in your case you won't) and can be re-used. Can be used on PVC, Pex or copper as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jobu Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 I dunno man. I would solder a new pipe in. That's just me though. I don't patch anything where water is involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eSJayDee Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 If they're on snugly, the work great. If they're a bit loose/misaligned, they can/will leak. I would not use them in a concealed wall & would be hesitant to use them on anything that would be (particularly) prone to movement. I've used them for temporary repairs & I even installed a solder-free toilet valve that thus far has been trouble free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynical Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 I haven't used the sharkbite brand but I've used "push to connect end caps" that I bought at lowes (Blue hawk brand I think). I used them to cap off copper lines I had cut while gutting a bathroom during a remodel. They are the same technology as shown in your video and worked perfectly for me. I never had a single drop of leaking at the caps. I was a bit anxious after installing them....and then turning the water main back on. As I said, however, they worked great. Easy to remove when you're done (though in your case you won't) and can be re-used. Can be used on PVC, Pex or copper as well. I replaced my main water line between the meter and my house about 3-4 years ago. Both ends use quick connects. No problems since then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GG Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 I use them and like them, but pros say to avoid them because they they've seen plenty of failures. Don't know if it's them being picky, or not liking a product that's not old school, but you should be aware of the criticism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Just cut the pipe and ream the sharp burr from the edge.... DO NOT SCORE it or scratch it up where the o-ring sits... Just cut pipe, ream cut and push on. You want that o-ring to seat smoothly around the pipe. I prefer sweating the pipe (cheaper), but in tight places push-on connectors are just as good as standard compression. Do not hide it in a wall, not sure if that is national plumbing code, but I wouldn't. I have had SharkBites on the water works around my softener for almost 10 years and not one drop. There are much debate about these fittings. The do meet national plumbing code. The o-ring won't "dry out" and the stainless teeth will "bite." Good suggestion is get the removal tool in case you have to reseat, reset, remove. These fittings are sweet, they make excellent slip joints (you can turn them into position). I use them and like them, but pros say to avoid them because they they've seen plenty of failures. Don't know if it's them being picky, or not liking a product that's not old school, but you should be aware of the criticism. Good point... There is a ton of debate. Like I said above, I would put one anywhere you would put a standard compression fitting, etc... Like on a filter housing, water heater, or other appliance or open repair in say a basement. I have never had one fail. I think it is them being picky and old-school. I still wouldn't bury one in a wall though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Oh... Also, these will connect copper (Cu) to pex (plastic), if you are doing this... MAKE SURE YOU DON'T BREAK YOUR ELECTRICAL GROUND BOND. That is, the Cu water pipe in many people's house is bonded as a ground to their electrical panel. You put pex in between, or if there is pex in between, no more ground. Put a jumper around it. With the advent of homeowner stuff, it's why the National Electrical Code (NEC) now requires a dedicated bond going all the way from panel to beyond water meter... In case homeowners start throwing in plastic. Get what I am saying? Anway, Sharkbites WILL remain continuity of the ground bond. They are brass and stainless, I always put a continuity tester on ithe connection anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gugny Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Just helped my buddy put my new hot water heater in. He used shark bites and they were quick, easy and effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 (edited) Just helped my buddy put my new hot water heater in. He used shark bites and they were quick, easy and effective.Cash Acme is the company behind SharkBite, they make a very good product... All kinds of fittings, valves, etc... Like you said! They have been standing the test of time, going on 10 years with some of the fittings I have used. But the big thing I found is what I said. Just cut the pipe and ream... Make sure it is clean where the o-ring will sit. Do NOT sand, scratch, or deform the circle of the pipe... That's when you will get leaks. When you push them on, you are slipping an o-ring over the pipe and the teeth grab opposite to stop it from blowing off. Where that o-ring sits, you want it to nicely seat. The burr on the freshly cut pipe has to be attended to because you don't want to cut the o-ring as it is being pushed onto the pipe. Go for it Plenz! If it doesn't leak right off the bat, it won't leak @ all. Sweating BTW is not that hard. Just get a nice torch and use MAPP (not really true MAPP) gas, it will heat hotter and quicker. It is a great skill to have and you can impress all your friends @ the next cocktail party. In college we got a little too zealous breaking things while drunk, took out a water pipe by mistake. My friend and I sweated the pipe back together with the solder already there and a can of AquaNet as a homemade torch... LMAO, it worked and held! Edited March 20, 2015 by ExiledInIllinois Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plenzmd1 Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 Thank you all fro the replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Thank you all fro the replies Just make sure you get the removal tool... They are few bucks depending what size fitting. All it is is a littel orange horseshoe looking thing... Slips over the collar and the you press... It un-bites the teeth so you can slide the fitting off. It will come in handy if you have to re-seat the fitting. I suppose you could use pliars, etc... But the device makes removal a breeze. A bit tricky @ first. You can keep the removal tool for future jobs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwchze Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 I own a hardware store, that being said,we only recommend shark bites.They are pricey but they hold up. Do not go to the off brands.We just do not believe in their longevity especially around water. Nothing worse than a water break. Yikes..That being said I still like to solder for the best results, but if you dont know how to do it, have someone teach you. You either know how to do it or not, Being in a rural area we see a lot of cpvc and pvc. Just remember it must be clean of any paint or debris before gluing. Learned that one the hard way. any ways good luck..make sure no leaks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyst Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 solder it, once fix and forget. but it depends where the pipe is at and pretty much everyone hit it on the head already. i just had to replace a spigot and literally did not have the time to do it so paid a company to do it while i was at work. i never checked my water bill - it had been more then my neighbors (family of 4) for 6 months. So, $40 vs. $8 that I usually paid. I just happen to look at my mail and their bill was in my box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynical Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 I have never had one fail. I think it is them being picky and old-school. I still wouldn't bury one in a wall though. If I was a betting man, probably more along the lines of seeing so many of them failing because the DIY did not install it right. The concept and installation of the product is pretty simple if the directions and recommendations are followed. Short cutting the directions or recommendations is not a good thing unless you really know what the hell you are doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 (edited) If I was a betting man, probably more along the lines of seeing so many of them failing because the DIY did not install it right. The concept and installation of the product is pretty simple if the directions and recommendations are followed. Short cutting the directions or recommendations is not a good thing unless you really know what the hell you are doing. So true! And the professional doesn't want a call back! Especially in the middle of the night with flooded basement. I would bet even the professional may not install them right! Then there is their insurance thing... I mentioned about installing them on a old pipe, even new. Just make sure the area where the o-ring sits is not deformed, has stuff on it, etc... The BIG thing is the deburring of the freshly cut pipe. If there is a bur on the cut end, that's where the o-ring slips on, YOU DO NOT WANT TO DAMAGE THAT O-RING WHILE PUSHING ON. You get past that process, you are home free. Just a note, even sweated pipes fail. Just look @ by college story above. They won't take a flying beer bottle being tossed around in a basement that is only 6 foot deep! ALSO: If I stand corrected, the Shark Bite types (Cash Acme) uses a ferrule, especially connecting plastic... So it is almost like a push-on flare fitting. Flare fittings (flare type compression) have been used forever with no problems. BUT, flare fittings do have their drawbacks, motion being one of them. Instead of tightening down with a threaded connection, Shark Bites use stainless teeth to grab and hold. Water has to get past that tight connection AND then the o-ring. The o-ring won't dry out since it is constantly lubricated... And you are not twisting it constantly or it is moving regularly. They should last forever, the fittings... AND if they do leak, it won't be a blowout. These are nothing more than push-on compression fittings. solder it, once fix and forget. but it depends where the pipe is at and pretty much everyone hit it on the head already. i just had to replace a spigot and literally did not have the time to do it so paid a company to do it while i was at work. i never checked my water bill - it had been more then my neighbors (family of 4) for 6 months. So, $40 vs. $8 that I usually paid. I just happen to look at my mail and their bill was in my box. YEP! BUT there are times when you just can't get into an area with a torch... Even with a heat shield. Those cases I will assemble on the ground sweating and then put the final piece in with compression. OR around appliances that you may/have to dismantle. I use them around filter housings, softeners, water heaters, even valves. The old standard was brass compression, now it is just brass push-on. I get more leaks around an old brass compression (threaded w/ferrule) than old Shark Bite (actually never had one yet with a Shark Bite). Movement, like others said is a big issue. Movement/slip helps with the install, BUT after that strap it down and secure it so it never slips again. Thread compression sometimes give me fits because you need to tighten the nut and that causes problems elsewhere. Push-on is more positive, and less stress on the line DURING the install, IMO. Score or crunch the ferrule unevenly and that will leak. One is just usinig a brass ferrule (threaded compression) and the other is using an o-ring (Shark Bite teeth to grab instead of threads). I am not sure what kind of o-ring they use, but like the hardware owner said, Shark Bites (Cash Acme) are the best! Go to their site and see all the applications they have... Even industrial, high pressure, etc... There is also a cheap "depth tool" w/built in deburrer you can get. Using that will quickly get you to the proper depth when cutting the pipe for the fitting. It will evenly keep the pipe in a perfect circle... And most inpprtantly will be able to mark the depth so you push it on far enough and tight! Edited March 21, 2015 by ExiledInIllinois Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExiledInIllinois Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Oh... Plenz... I would use a pipe cutter. Cut the pipe with that. They are not that expensive for small (under an 1") and are really handy. They will cut the pipe square. The standard ones even have a little deburrer on it. They make mini ones for tight areas, also rachetting ones for cutting pipe where limited movement is available! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plenzmd1 Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Well, so far so good! Seems to be no leaks, so I am happy camper as of today! And it really was easy, and that's saying something when it's easy for me. Also put a new flapper on the pooper, think I may have a new vocation! Thanks again all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gugny Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Well, so far so good! Seems to be no leaks, so I am happy camper as of today! And it really was easy, and that's saying something when it's easy for me. Also put a new flapper on the pooper, think I may have a new vocation! Thanks again all You're pooper needed a flapper? Is that considered elective? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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