bbb Posted February 9, 2015 Posted February 9, 2015 Here's the wiki of Tandy Corporation: Tandy Leather, which later grew in to the Tandy Corporation, was a family-owned leather goods company based in Fort Worth, Texas. Tandy Leather was founded in 1919 as a leather supply store, and acquired a number of craft retail companies, including RadioShack in 1963. In 2000, the Tandy Corporation name was dropped and entity became the RadioShack Corporation, selling The Tandy Leather name and operating assets to The Leather Factory.
/dev/null Posted March 26, 2015 Posted March 26, 2015 One of Radio Shack's most valuable assets is your personal information http://newyork.cbslocal.com/2015/03/25/report-radio-shack-to-sell-customers-personal-information-in-bankruptcy-sale/
Pine Barrens Mafia Posted March 26, 2015 Posted March 26, 2015 I remember buying the parts to build a 300 baud handset-in-cupola modem at RadioShack when i was a teenager. Good times.
Jobu Posted March 26, 2015 Posted March 26, 2015 My first computer was TRS-80 Model III, Then a Model IV, then I went big time and got a Tandy 1000!!! That was the s***.
KD in CA Posted March 26, 2015 Posted March 26, 2015 One of Radio Shack's most valuable assets is your personal information http://newyork.cbslocal.com/2015/03/25/report-radio-shack-to-sell-customers-personal-information-in-bankruptcy-sale/ Maybe they could reorganize as a social media site!
ExiledInIllinois Posted March 26, 2015 Posted March 26, 2015 I probably should put this into another thread to help Chrysler owners with their memory seat modules save some serious coin! Chrysler claims that it is "static energy" burning the boards out. There is actually a service bulletin out for it. In my not so humble layman's opinion (IMNSHLO) , it is a loose solder connection on the underside of the board that is causing the power connector to become loose, then arc, and then fuse together... Probably from years of seat movement and lack of strain relief. Of course Chrysler will want you to spend the 300 bucks on the new board and the HUGE LABOR HOURS to replace with the same faulty connection! This is in the Radio Shack thread because I really needed them!! I thought a few stores were still open... ANYWAY, I had some spare Radio Shack banana connections. Getting parts online sucks because I like to browse and "feel" what I need. I would usually use a "Modar" connection (because they are polarized) to hook up to where I cut the old +/- pigtail off... But had to make do with connections @ AutoZone. I put a tap onto the negative and postive wires so as to jump the seat motor easily just in case the board eventually craps out... Which it probably hopefully won't! Works like a charm... Cost= <$10.00 RADIO SHACK CHRYSLER MEMORY SEAT MODULE FIX: Here is the finished product thanks to some spare Radio Shack banana plugs and panel mount banana connector: Pretty Bohemian solder job... But it works and it is bullet/tank, maybe not pitbull , proof: Here is the burned out OEM power connex to the board, it was melted and fused together from the arc caused by loose connection. The solder tab (not shown in any pictures) under the board holding the power pin to the board also came off and had to be resoldered... NOTE: Save as much of that pin as possible to facilitate easy soldering. The rest of this old power connext had to be butchered off. Also, be careful handling the board or Chrysler's "static thing" consumer red herring will come true:
Jobu Posted March 27, 2015 Posted March 27, 2015 I probably should put this into another thread to help Chrysler owners with their memory seat modules save some serious coin! Chrysler claims that it is "static energy" burning the boards out. There is actually a service bulletin out for it. In my not so humble layman's opinion (IMNSHLO) , it is a loose solder connection on the underside of the board that is causing the power connector to become loose, then arc, and then fuse together... Probably from years of seat movement and lack of strain relief. Of course Chrysler will want you to spend the 300 bucks on the new board and the HUGE LABOR HOURS to replace with the same faulty connection! This is in the Radio Shack thread because I really needed them!! I thought a few stores were still open... ANYWAY, I had some spare Radio Shack banana connections. Getting parts online sucks because I like to browse and "feel" what I need. I would usually use a "Modar" connection (because they are polarized) to hook up to where I cut the old +/- pigtail off... But had to make do with connections @ AutoZone. I put a tap onto the negative and postive wires so as to jump the seat motor easily just in case the board eventually craps out... Which it probably hopefully won't! Works like a charm... Cost= <$10.00 RADIO SHACK CHRYSLER MEMORY SEAT MODULE FIX: Here is the finished product thanks to some spare Radio Shack banana plugs and panel mount banana connector: MemorySeatModule_03152015_WEB.jpg MemorySeatModule_03152015_2_WEB.jpg Pretty Bohemian solder job... But it works and it is bullet/tank, maybe not pitbull , proof: MemorySeatModule_03152015_3_WEB.jpg MemorySeatModule_03152015_4_WEB.jpg MemorySeatModule_03152015_5_WEB.jpg Here is the burned out OEM power connex to the board, it was melted and fused together from the arc caused by loose connection. The solder tab (not shown in any pictures) under the board holding the power pin to the board also came off and had to be resoldered... NOTE: Save as much of that pin as possible to facilitate easy soldering. The rest of this old power connext had to be butchered off. Also, be careful handling the board or Chrysler's "static thing" consumer red herring will come true: MemorySeatModulePwrConnexBurned_03152015_WEB.jpg MemorySeatModulePwrConnexBurned_03152015_2_WEB.jpg That looks like one of my solder jobs!
ExiledInIllinois Posted March 27, 2015 Posted March 27, 2015 That looks like one of my solder jobs! It's the only thing I could think of and make it strain proof so as not to have the board damaged any further. The logic board sit in the box and screws to the bottom of the driver's seat. When the seat moves and travels fore and aft, so does the slack in the wiring harness. Ideally, a protected connector would have been nice... I pinned the wire and left enough for travel. I guess if the banana plugs comes out... Really on the positive side only and goes to ground, it will just pop the fuse and not damage anything. I took a solderless ring connector and bolted it to the banana plug mount posts... Then I just bridged the gap to the two posts sticking up from the board. getting the OEM power connector off I had to save as much coming off the board. Would have been nice to hit a Radio Shack and scour through their connector drawers! But, it works and under 10 bucks... Probably last longer than the car!
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