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Posted

I will do my best to get this typed and make it short and sweet. My fingers are freezing since I just got in from spreading some in this cold rain - it's all wrapped up for the season, though.

 

Anyway, I know a lot of us are DIY'ers and a lot of us are well-to-do and have others do it, but still like to know. So, I want to just make sure everyone realizes what is in their fertilizer and how it works a little bit more.

 

When you see the label for N-P-K-S you need to figure that on 100 lbs. of fertilizer. So, one 50 lbs. bag of 10-10-10 actually contains 5 lbs. of N, 5 lbs. of P, 5 lbs. of K. It may or may not contain S (Sulfer). For the average lawn, in almost all states it is recommended to provide about 150 lbs. of N per acre. NC does not even test soil samples for N and just provides those base numbers. In order to get 150 lbs. of N you would need to spread 30 bags of 10-10-10, or just over 4 bags of 34-0-0 (Ammonia Sulfate), or just over 3 bags for 46-0-0 (Urea). Urea is a one you should put out right before a rain and early in the season to get it to green up very quickly, it will also vaporize quickly if spread and subjected to extended waiting. Ammonia Nitrate is good for later in the year.

 

NPK rating info

 

Nitrogen makes it green. Phosphorus and Potash are for root development. You need roots to grow grass.

 

One very last important thing that matters more then anything above is knowing your soils pH. If you spread 200# of everything, if you spread and do all your fertilizer and weed killer and everything to the max and your pH is 3 points off you are going to be wasting a lot of time. Ideally you need to fall around pH. Some places need to apply sulfur, some people need to apply lime and some are lucky enough to not need anything.

 

So, you're wondering how do I figure all of this out for myself? You visit your local Agricultural Extension Office. You can get all sorts of professional advice all for free. In many states you can submit soil samples for little or no cost that will tell you exactly what you need for fertilizer - and you can even borrow/rent the soil testing drill.

 

If you'd like to know any specifics, I'd be happy to do the best I can to help or point you in the right direction.

Posted

So, you're wondering how do I figure all of this out for myself? You visit your local Agricultural Extension Office. You can get all sorts of professional advice all for free. In many states you can submit soil samples for little or no cost that will tell you exactly what you need for fertilizer - and you can even borrow/rent the soil testing drill.

 

I knew all that, except this. THAT had never occurred to me, that the state might have resources to help.

 

Of course, this being the People's Democratic Republic of Maryland, where they even tax the rain (no ****, I pay taxes on rain), they'll probably tell me it's illegal to use fertilizer without paying for the appropriate licenses and permits.

Posted

I knew all that, except this. THAT had never occurred to me, that the state might have resources to help.

 

Of course, this being the People's Democratic Republic of Maryland, where they even tax the rain (no ****, I pay taxes on rain), they'll probably tell me it's illegal to use fertilizer without paying for the appropriate licenses and permits.

https://www.udc.edu/college_urban_agriculture_and_environmental_studies/cooperative_extension_service

 

https://extension.umd.edu/locations

 

Those should help. You have to be a resident to get help, generally. But they do not care. You can still get sample boxes for soil, etc, all of which are free. You just pay postage. The Ag Extension will also help you with soil drainage issues around your house, help you figure out what is wrong with your trees, bushes, shrubs, or flowers - whether it be bugs, mites, pests, fungus, disease, etc. They will diagnose such issues. Free.

 

Many larger counties also have equipment you can lease or even borrow for just a security deposit. Well funded counties might provide you pull behind fertilizer spreaders for your lawn mower, or soil pluggers, or even augers. If you go to some states that are heavy in ag you can literally rent or borrow any type of Ag equipment you can imagine.

Posted

Any experience using diluted urine as fertilizer?

I have often thought about this. The greenest grass I've ever seen is where my dog pissed (I water daily). I've been tempted to somehow collect her piss (or mine) and put it in my ortho mixer thing that attaches to the hose and water the lawn with it.

Posted

Any experience using diluted urine as fertilizer?

Tons. I've also used diluted urine as a means of putting out fires, to settle territorial disputes, and to show homeless people who's boss.

Posted

Any experience using diluted urine as fertilizer?

Sorry, saw this and meant to reply - busy as can be week. Finally got the layoff we knew was coming.

 

With the cattle I don't have to worry about diluting the urine - they spread it just fine. The grass in the Summer is often greenest in the little patches where they piss. As far as human urine or many other forms of urine, from what I know, we are much weaker in concentration with nitrates and other essential nutrients that plants would have. Plus, we might get a 1/4 cup where a cow puts out about 2-3 cups.

 

Hope this answered your question.

Posted

Sorry, saw this and meant to reply - busy as can be week. Finally got the layoff we knew was coming.

 

With the cattle I don't have to worry about diluting the urine - they spread it just fine. The grass in the Summer is often greenest in the little patches where they piss. As far as human urine or many other forms of urine, from what I know, we are much weaker in concentration with nitrates and other essential nutrients that plants would have. Plus, we might get a 1/4 cup where a cow puts out about 2-3 cups.

 

Hope this answered your question.

 

Works the same with dogs. If I could teach my chihuahua to piss in a bowl I'd have the greenest lawn in town. Urine burns the lawn at the point of contact but the grass 8-12 inches around is green and lush.

Posted

Everything that you said above is true. But what some people don't realize is that if you just aerate and plant the right kinds of seed (Fescue, Rye, Bermuda, etc) at the right times of the year (and many places need at least two kinds to be green all year), and then spray them out at the proper times so that they won't compete, you're grass will be golden.

Posted

Everything that you said above is true. But what some people don't realize is that if you just aerate and plant the right kinds of seed (Fescue, Rye, Bermuda, etc) at the right times of the year (and many places need at least two kinds to be green all year), and then spray them out at the proper times so that they won't compete, you're grass will be golden.

I don't want my grass to be golden, I prefer the more popular green.
Posted (edited)

I knew all that, except this. THAT had never occurred to me, that the state might have resources to help.

 

Of course, this being the People's Democratic Republic of Maryland, where they even tax the rain (no ****, I pay taxes on rain), they'll probably tell me it's illegal to use fertilizer without paying for the appropriate licenses and permits.

 

Do they make the fertilizer company print "NOT TO BE USED TO MAKE BOMBS" on the bags?

Edited by KD in CT
Posted

I don't want my grass to be golden, I prefer the more popular green.

Showers are a different story, altogether ...

Posted

Works the same with dogs. If I could teach my chihuahua to piss in a bowl I'd have the greenest lawn in town. Urine burns the lawn at the point of contact but the grass 8-12 inches around is green and lush.

Do like they do with deer. Crate it with a concrete slab beneath. Have pipes in the slab that collect the urine thru a screening which are then bottled and sold for $400 a gallon. The chihuahua hunters probably pay good money for chihuahua in heat urine.

 

There are a few options. One is a homemade recipe of a vinegar based solution which will help the pH of the soil barely and also deter the animal from pissing there. There is also simply taking lime or sulfur to just that effected area to treat it.

 

Everything that you said above is true. But what some people don't realize is that if you just aerate and plant the right kinds of seed (Fescue, Rye, Bermuda, etc) at the right times of the year (and many places need at least two kinds to be green all year), and then spray them out at the proper times so that they won't compete, you're grass will be golden.

The big point with a lawn is that you need to watch how much NPK you put on it. Your yard services are giving it like 9-7-7. But, you can go but 10-20-20, or 17-17-17 for a cheaper price and then just use half the amount. The yard services get you because they put it out every 3 weeks. If you do it yourself every 3 weeks and just spend an hour a month on your half acre you'll realize it's simple as pie.

 

Do they make the fertilizer company print "NOT TO BE USED TO MAKE BOMBS" on the bags?

If you get a chance, read the warnings on a bag of fertilizer. 10-10-10 makes good warnings, same with any N based fertilizer.
Posted

Do they make the fertilizer company print "NOT TO BE USED TO MAKE BOMBS" on the bags?

 

In Maryland, the warning is "Caution: detonate only in Virginia."

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