(OT) Puppy question

[stevestojan]

by the way, I use stuff called "Nutro Max"... apparently its good because it only uses chicken "meat"... wherea the stuff you buy at the store contains: beaks, feet, bones, etc, etc...

 

I was told by my vet to "never buy dog food that you can get at the grocery store".

 

After switching to Nutro Max, my dogs poop is about 1/2 the amount it used to be.

 

The vet explained that this is because when you feed them crap like "Pedigree", those beaks and knuckle, etc, etc, doesn't digest, and is just filler. Soooo, in turn, even though the Nutro max is about twice as expensive, you're paying for filler with the other stuff...

[DC Tom]

I was told by my vet to "never buy dog food that you can get at the grocery store".

 

209474[/snapback]

 

Generally good advice with any pet food...but Purina One cat food turns out to be very good stuff. Cats had a lot of digestive problems until I turned them onto that.

 

Don't know if they make a dog food, though...

[TigerJ]

You've gotten a lot of advice on training. I don't think I can suggest anything new. How about some advice on cleaning up "accidents." I won't address bowel movements. Unless a dog is sick those are pretty firm and easy to pick up with toilet paper. Urinating on a carpet is a whole 'nother ball game. It's easiest to clean up as soon as it happens. Use some old towels for this that you no longer use for people. You'll also a need a wet/dry vac.

 

Step 1: Fold the towel up into several layers. Put it over the spot and step on it. It will blot up most of the urine.

 

Step 2: Mix a few drops of dish detergent with hot water. I use a 2 liter soda bottle for this. The amount will depend on the size of the accident, which will depend on the size of the puppy. With a small puppy you'll need less than half a bottle. With a 50 lb bruiser you'll probably want the whole thing filled. Pour half the water detergent mix on the spot and scrub briefly. Vacuum it up and repeat.

 

Step 3: Repeat step 2 with plain hot water to rinse. I rinse twice to get all the detergent out.

 

Step 4: Mix 1 part white vinegar to 3 parts hot water to make enough to soak your spot once (about half as much solution as for steps 2 and 3). Pour and vacuum one more time.

 

Step 5: Blot the carpet one more time with a clean dry (old) towel.

 

Step 6: Use the vacuum to fluff the nap of the carpet and let it air dry the rest of the way.

 

This takes most of the urine out of the carpet and does not just try to neutralize the smell. The white vinegar will neutralize the little bit of smell that remains after steps 2 and 3. The vinegar smell disappears when the carpet dries. The biggest problem we have (We have an old dog who has accidents now) is that the carpet is very old and this method cleans the carpet so thoroughly that we have "clean spots" where the carpet is cleaner, brighter and fresher than even commercial cleaning can make it.

[KnightRider]

by the way, I use stuff called "Nutro Max"... apparently its good because it only uses chicken "meat"... wherea the stuff you buy at the store contains: beaks, feet, bones, etc, etc...

 

I was told by my vet to "never buy dog food that you can get at the grocery store".

 

After switching to Nutro Max, my dogs poop is about 1/2 the amount it used to be.

 

The vet explained that this is because when you feed them crap like "Pedigree", those beaks and knuckle, etc, etc, doesn't digest, and is just filler. Soooo, in turn, even though  the Nutro max is about twice as expensive, you're paying for filler with the other stuff...

209474[/snapback]

 

 

That's the stuff we use, although we give that brand to the cats, too. As for Purina One, they do make or at least used to make it. My old Golden ate it when he was young. He did well on it, but boy was he flatulent. He finished his life last summer on Nutro Max senior with the Glucosamine and was in decent shape until the last day or two...

 

Ya know my parents get their food delivered on a schedule from some web based outfit. Though I haven't tried it, I think that would be pretty conveinient....

[VABills]

We just got a puppy also. He is now 12 weks old. Black Field Lab. The breeder started crate training him, about a week before we picked him up. What you need is a crate that is barely big enough for her to move around in. If it will be a lot bigger dog, get a crate wit a moveable divider. Dogs do not like to stand/lay where they have done their business, so they will hold it. But accidents will happen as well.

 

Do not do paper training, training mats or anything else like that. First you will still have the smell in the house, and the dog, will continue using that area when in dire need. Two it takes longer to complete their training.

 

Depending on the breed it will take longer to break. Our dog, at this age can go about 6-7 hours alone. Smaller breeds at that age may only last and hour or two. You may need to hire a pet walker until she is old enough to last all day.

[VABills]

by the way, I use stuff called "Nutro Max"... apparently its good because it only uses chicken "meat"... wherea the stuff you buy at the store contains: beaks, feet, bones, etc, etc...

 

I was told by my vet to "never buy dog food that you can get at the grocery store".

 

After switching to Nutro Max, my dogs poop is about 1/2 the amount it used to be.

 

The vet explained that this is because when you feed them crap like "Pedigree", those beaks and knuckle, etc, etc, doesn't digest, and is just filler. Soooo, in turn, even though  the Nutro max is about twice as expensive, you're paying for filler with the other stuff...

209474[/snapback]

 

Real good advice. However there are a few brands that you can get. Our breeder used IAMS and we are keeping our on it for now. Basically you want one that is primarily meat. So just check the ingrediants and look for one that has meat listed first. When the dog gets older we are switching him to either Eukanuba, Royal Canin, or Canidae.

[spidey]

You've gotten a lot of advice on training.  I don't think I can suggest anything new.  How about some advice on cleaning up "accidents."  I won't address bowel movements.  Unless a dog is sick those are pretty firm and easy to pick up with toilet paper.  Urinating on a carpet is a whole 'nother ball game.  It's easiest to clean up as soon as it happens.  Use some old towels for this that you no longer use for people.  You'll also a need a wet/dry vac.

 

Step 1: Fold the towel up into several layers.  Put it over the spot and step on it.  It will blot up most of the urine.

 

Step 2: Mix a few drops of dish detergent with hot water.  I use a 2 liter soda bottle for this.  The amount will depend on the size of the accident, which will depend on the size of the puppy.  With a small puppy you'll need less than half a bottle.  With a 50 lb bruiser you'll probably want the whole thing filled.  Pour half the water detergent mix on the spot and scrub briefly.  Vacuum it up and repeat.

 

Step 3:  Repeat step 2 with plain hot water to rinse.  I rinse twice to get all the detergent out.

 

Step 4:  Mix 1 part white vinegar to 3 parts hot water to make enough to soak your spot once (about half as much solution as for steps 2 and 3).  Pour and vacuum one more time. 

 

Step 5:  Blot the carpet one more time with a clean dry (old) towel.

 

Step 6:  Use the vacuum to fluff the nap of the carpet and let it air dry the rest of the way.

 

This takes most of the urine out of the carpet and does not just try to neutralize the smell.  The white vinegar will neutralize the little bit of smell that remains after steps 2 and 3.  The vinegar smell disappears when the carpet dries.  The biggest problem we have (We have an old dog who has accidents now) is that the carpet is very old and this method cleans the carpet so thoroughly that we have "clean spots" where the carpet is cleaner, brighter and fresher than even commercial cleaning can make it.

209477[/snapback]

Simplest method for urine accidents is the following. After dog urinates quickly take some baking soda and pour it liberally to the spot a small pile usually works. Lets it sit for awhile(10 mins) so the baking soda will absorb the urine and also the smell. You than can use a simple dust pan to collect and dispose of and than us vacuum to get the rest. After all done use a damp cloths and resolve to finish the cleaning. If you dont rinse well you will notice a white sot but just keep rinsing. This worked the best when our one beagle had bladder cancer and had many accidents on her way to ask out.

[spidey]

how about a 2 and a half year old beagle that is potty trained but still has occasional poop accidents in the house? i swear this dog poops everytime he goes out...he just needs to have an empty colon...and when he poops outside, he feels the need to do it in 4 different spots to make my life harder

my other dog is perfectly normal...saves it up and makes one huge pile once or twice a day

209395[/snapback]

This is the nature of beagles. We have had three and no matter what we have fed them they always seem to have some stored just incase they go for a walk or to a near territory.

 

BTW the best food to feed a dog that will significantly reduce quantity of stool is a raw meat diet. There is a local NC place that provides ground duck, rabbit, chicken or tureky along with some ground veggies. All are raised in steroid free environments( not free range). They grind the full bird/rabbit so that you get ground bone in as well. This is a diet recommended for dogs with cancer since studies have shown carbs feed cancer. The amount of stool is significantly reduced and what ever stool there is disintegrates in about a day to just whats left the ground bone.

[pkwwjd]

http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/cratetraining.htm

Crate training is the best for the dog and the owner.

208892[/snapback]

 

Amen, amen and AMEN

 

Crate train your dog -- it is the easiest way, it is the most humane way (for dog and owner), and it is the most enduring way. Helps down the road with travel -- many hotels allow pets that are caged.