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Posted

I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan that has been stalling at idle. The car drives normal, but when I come to a stop, the RPM's jump and then the care stalls. It will start back up immediately. My mechanic has the vehicle and says that no codes are coming up (I'm not a car expert at all). He has tried a crank position sensor and and idle air control valve to no avail.

 

He says that he is going to see if he can borrow a used computer and see if that works, but he isn't sure that it will. He said next step would be to take it to a dealer - which I pretty much refuse to do unless I'm desparate.

 

So - any thoughts?

Posted
I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan that has been stalling at idle. The car drives normal, but when I come to a stop, the RPM's jump and then the care stalls. It will start back up immediately. My mechanic has the vehicle and says that no codes are coming up (I'm not a car expert at all). He has tried a crank position sensor and and idle air control valve to no avail.

 

He says that he is going to see if he can borrow a used computer and see if that works, but he isn't sure that it will. He said next step would be to take it to a dealer - which I pretty much refuse to do unless I'm desparate.

 

So - any thoughts?

 

 

What type of transmision, Automatic or stick. I assume auto but i have to ask.

Posted

It could be as simple as dirty fuel injectors, i would start and clean those firts.

 

If that does not work.

 

Check the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) to make sure it is not clogged.(which you have done) Also check the fuel pressure controller.

 

Check all air hoses/vacums to make sure you have no leaks.

 

 

 

I had the same issue when i had my '99 Escort. . .

Posted

agree with the poster regarding fuel problems. I would try to clean fuel injectors first since that is inexpensive. How long since you changed plugs?

Posted

Like Count said.

 

Also, dollars to donuts it may be a bad intake manifold gasket. But then again, it would be hard to start... That doesn't seem to be the case.

 

My 1998 Isuzu had that problem... Needed a intake maniflod gasket and throttle body service (cleaned the plenum and what... New plugs too.)

 

Is there a whistling or sucking sound... Kinda like the one you hear when the Bills play? :wallbash:

Posted
Like others are saying too.

 

Always change the fuel filter... That is cheap and can be done by anybody with not a lot of car skills... I think the 2001 Caravan is EFI-throttle body.

 

To be safe:

 

Release Fuel Pressure Just in Case

 

'01 Caravan is MFI. Also, the gas tank has to be lowered to change the FF. Likely not the FF anyway, as it would be at speed when it acts up, not idle.

 

To OP, go here: Allpar.com They have a minivan MB that should be able to help with your problem.

Posted

FYI...that model you can probably check the codes yourself by turning the key on and off 3 times(not all the way on, just to the battery on stage) then counting the times the engine light comes on..for instance a code 25 would show up as 2 blinks of the engine light a brief pause then 5 blinks of the engine light, then i think 2 blinks to indicate it is over...then find a code chart online....not saying the mechanic isn't giving you valid info, but no sense taking these particular models to mechanics to get code info....hey i am a cheapskate...what can i say

 

I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan that has been stalling at idle. The car drives normal, but when I come to a stop, the RPM's jump and then the care stalls. It will start back up immediately. My mechanic has the vehicle and says that no codes are coming up (I'm not a car expert at all). He has tried a crank position sensor and and idle air control valve to no avail.

 

He says that he is going to see if he can borrow a used computer and see if that works, but he isn't sure that it will. He said next step would be to take it to a dealer - which I pretty much refuse to do unless I'm desparate.

 

So - any thoughts?

Posted
FYI...that model you can probably check the codes yourself by turning the key on and off 3 times(not all the way on, just to the battery on stage) then counting the times the engine light comes on..for instance a code 25 would show up as 2 blinks of the engine light a brief pause then 5 blinks of the engine light, then i think 2 blinks to indicate it is over...then find a code chart online....not saying the mechanic isn't giving you valid info, but no sense taking these particular models to mechanics to get code info....hey i am a cheapskate...what can i say

 

Are you sure? I am not overly familiar with Dodges, but starting in 1996, all cars had to be OBD (On-Board Diagnostic) -2 complaint.

 

In English, codes were standardized across the manufacturers. The end result was all manufacturers have to use the same 5 digit codes.

Posted
FYI...that model you can probably check the codes yourself by turning the key on and off 3 times(not all the way on, just to the battery on stage) then counting the times the engine light comes on..for instance a code 25 would show up as 2 blinks of the engine light a brief pause then 5 blinks of the engine light, then i think 2 blinks to indicate it is over...then find a code chart online....not saying the mechanic isn't giving you valid info, but no sense taking these particular models to mechanics to get code info....hey i am a cheapskate...what can i say

 

 

Some of the newer mopar minis show the codes directly in the tranmission range display as "Pxxx" the "x' being a numerical value.

My '05 does this.

If it's the check engine light blinking, the lowest number is 12 (battery disconnect), the highest is 55 (test completed).

 

And Richmond, when's the last time you've gotten a tune up? (Plugs AND wires)

 

 

A quick search over at Allpar.com has come up with several items to check:

 

1) EGR valve.

2) IAC (Idle air control)

3) TPS (Throttle position sensor)

4) MAP sensor (Manifold absolute pressure)

 

Don't switch computers! They are vehicle-specific and can cause mucho trouble in many areas unless reprogrammed by a dealer.

Posted
I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan that has been stalling at idle. The car drives normal, but when I come to a stop, the RPM's jump and then the care stalls. It will start back up immediately. My mechanic has the vehicle and says that no codes are coming up (I'm not a car expert at all). He has tried a crank position sensor and and idle air control valve to no avail.

 

He says that he is going to see if he can borrow a used computer and see if that works, but he isn't sure that it will. He said next step would be to take it to a dealer - which I pretty much refuse to do unless I'm desparate.

 

So - any thoughts?

 

Where's the Mass Air Flow sensor located? On the air filter housing or the throttle body/intake manifold?

 

If it's on the air filter housing, check the large rubber hose between the sensor and the throttle body for cracks and/or leaks.

Posted
I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan that has been stalling at idle. The car drives normal, but when I come to a stop, the RPM's jump and then the care stalls. It will start back up immediately. My mechanic has the vehicle and says that no codes are coming up (I'm not a car expert at all). He has tried a crank position sensor and and idle air control valve to no avail.

 

He says that he is going to see if he can borrow a used computer and see if that works, but he isn't sure that it will. He said next step would be to take it to a dealer - which I pretty much refuse to do unless I'm desparate.

 

So - any thoughts?

I know exactly what it is. There is carbon built up between the throttle blades and the bore of thottle body. The fix is super simple remove the thottle body and clean the blade and bore with a rag and some t body cleaner. You need a new mechanic, it is a super comman problom with mpi cars.

Posted
I know exactly what it is. There is carbon built up between the throttle blades and the bore of thottle body. The fix is super simple remove the thottle body and clean the blade and bore with a rag and some t body cleaner. You need a new mechanic, it is a super comman problom with mpi cars.

 

 

That is what they call "throttle body service"... Right? I know when my intake mainfold when out, this was done... I mentioned cleaning the plenum...

Posted
I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan that has been stalling at idle. The car drives normal, but when I come to a stop, the RPM's jump and then the care stalls. It will start back up immediately. My mechanic has the vehicle and says that no codes are coming up (I'm not a car expert at all). He has tried a crank position sensor and and idle air control valve to no avail.

 

He says that he is going to see if he can borrow a used computer and see if that works, but he isn't sure that it will. He said next step would be to take it to a dealer - which I pretty much refuse to do unless I'm desparate.

 

So - any thoughts?

 

Yep...NPR radio has a show called Car Talk. Email them for their thoughts.

Posted
I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan that has been stalling at idle. The car drives normal, but when I come to a stop, the RPM's jump and then the care stalls. It will start back up immediately. My mechanic has the vehicle and says that no codes are coming up (I'm not a car expert at all). He has tried a crank position sensor and and idle air control valve to no avail.

 

He says that he is going to see if he can borrow a used computer and see if that works, but he isn't sure that it will. He said next step would be to take it to a dealer - which I pretty much refuse to do unless I'm desparate.

 

So - any thoughts?

 

You've already gotten excellent advice, but I would just add that joining a car forum would be the next best step to ensuring your knowledge of your own personal vehicle.

 

Just google search "Dodge Caravan forums", browse through some to find one you like, register, and viola, you're on your way to learning everything there is to know about your car!

 

Make sure you run a "search" on questions before starting a new thread, though.... :cry:

Posted

So after having the car all day, my mechanic called around to some people he knew. He told them that he cleaned the throttle body, tested a different IAC valve a new crank position sensor, etc. One guy that he knew that used to work at a Dodge dealership told him to move some of the Relays around (he told him specifically which ones, I'm not sure).

 

So, he did this, drove the care home and experienced no stalling. He said he let it run at his house last night and it stalled after about 30 minutes. He drove the car back to the shop this a.m., again no stalling, left it run at the shop and again, stalled out after about 30 minutes. So the point is - I would never be at a stop long enough for it to stall.

 

He told me to drive it for a few days let him know how its going and the we'll re-evaluate. So far, so good, knock on wood. Thanks for all that replied. Again - I'm not mechanically inclined in the least, but I did pass on many of the suggestions that you guys gave to my mechanic...Jim

Posted
So after having the car all day, my mechanic called around to some people he knew. He told them that he cleaned the throttle body, tested a different IAC valve a new crank position sensor, etc. One guy that he knew that used to work at a Dodge dealership told him to move some of the Relays around (he told him specifically which ones, I'm not sure).

 

So, he did this, drove the care home and experienced no stalling. He said he let it run at his house last night and it stalled after about 30 minutes. He drove the car back to the shop this a.m., again no stalling, left it run at the shop and again, stalled out after about 30 minutes. So the point is - I would never be at a stop long enough for it to stall.

 

He told me to drive it for a few days let him know how its going and the we'll re-evaluate. So far, so good, knock on wood. Thanks for all that replied. Again - I'm not mechanically inclined in the least, but I did pass on many of the suggestions that you guys gave to my mechanic...Jim

 

Do you always buy fuel at the same place?

 

There's a tested value for volatile organic liquids - Reid Vapor Pressure. Refinery changeovers for the seasons have been know to cause so-called "hot soak" problems. That term refers to engine behavior when the power plant is at operating temperature, and there is also a connection related to tank fuel temperature.

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