RayFinkle Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 Yes. I primed with a quality zinzer primer. I am using quality paint, but for some reason the flat white ceiling paint left an uneven sheen. Any tips???
stuckincincy Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 Yes. I primed with a quality zinzer primer. I am using quality paint, but for some reason the flat white ceiling paint left an uneven sheen. Any tips??? How well did you stir each product before application?
RayFinkle Posted February 8, 2010 Author Posted February 8, 2010 How well did you stir each product before application? Excessively. The paint was in the garage and cold when I applied it. That is the only thing I can think that might have caused my problem.
BB27 Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 If your paint is flashing, I would suggest that you stop using a blow torch....... Never heard of paint flashing... Flashy paint, yes, but never flashing.... Oh, is this dirty paint? Kind of like that guy in the park when you were little?
Pine Barrens Mafia Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 Yes. I primed with a quality zinzer primer. I am using quality paint, but for some reason the flat white ceiling paint left an uneven sheen. Any tips??? Only pull or push the roller in longer sections.
ExiledInIllinois Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 If your paint is flashing, I would suggest that you stop using a blow torch....... Never heard of paint flashing... Flashy paint, yes, but never flashing.... Oh, is this dirty paint? Kind of like that guy in the park when you were little? Actually, isn't it called "blushing." Or are those two different terms? "...blushing A gloss film turning flat or a clear lacquer turning white. Blushing is usually caused by moisture condensation during the drying process..." Maybe blushing occurs when there is too much flashing?
mead107 Posted February 8, 2010 Posted February 8, 2010 Start at one end and roll all the way across the ceiling as you work to the other end . Flat ceiling paint should not flash. Flat is flat and you can touch it up and it will not show as long as the wall is clean. Eggshell, Semi Gloss and gloss will show flash marks if not careful.
aussiew Posted February 9, 2010 Posted February 9, 2010 Not sure if this will help - but I had that happen to me. Found out later that I had been sold the Kilz for oil based paint instead of water based (they never asked and I didn't know). Then I had painted over it with a flat latex. But after another full coat with a slightly darker white of flate latex - it corrected the problem.
PushthePile Posted February 9, 2010 Posted February 9, 2010 Yes. I primed with a quality zinzer primer. I am using quality paint, but for some reason the flat white ceiling paint left an uneven sheen. Any tips??? One poster mentioned that flat paints shouldn't flash but the problem is that not all flats are flat. For example, Sherwin Williams Promar-200 or 400 flat has a slight sheen to it. It dries between an eggshell and flat. This is where you can get flashing. In order to prevent flashing, you need to use a true flat. Sherwin Williams sells a cheap flat paint called masterhide flat, you could paint it with a broom and not get flashing. Save yourself the effort and get the masterhide. Some of the other ceiling products are very difficult to keep from flashing, even the quality ones. I run my own painting company and will gladly answer anyone's questions. Some of the help at the stores can be a little lacking in knowledge and you can find yourself making mistakes.
BLZFAN4LIFE Posted February 9, 2010 Posted February 9, 2010 One poster mentioned that flat paints shouldn't flash but the problem is that not all flats are flat. For example, Sherwin Williams Promar-200 or 400 flat has a slight sheen to it. It dries between an eggshell and flat. This is where you can get flashing. In order to prevent flashing, you need to use a true flat. Sherwin Williams sells a cheap flat paint called masterhide flat, you could paint it with a broom and not get flashing. Save yourself the effort and get the masterhide. Some of the other ceiling products are very difficult to keep from flashing, even the quality ones. I run my own painting company and will gladly answer anyone's questions. Some of the help at the stores can be a little lacking in knowledge and you can find yourself making mistakes. That's good to know. I've done a lot of painting, but have noticed that ceilings can be very difficult, especially when sunlight hits them. Do you have any other tips for ceilings? i.e. techniques, spray vs. roll???
PushthePile Posted February 9, 2010 Posted February 9, 2010 That's good to know. I've done a lot of painting, but have noticed that ceilings can be very difficult, especially when sunlight hits them. Do you have any other tips for ceilings? i.e. techniques, spray vs. roll??? The key to ceilings is not letting any part of it dry completely while you are painting. By this I mean, cut the whole thing out first, then roll from one end to the other in sections. You don't want to go to far ahead of yourself, so roll in moderate rolls accross the most narrow area and back track as you go. This way a painted surface never sits long enough to dry. On second coats, roll the opposite direction as the first coat. It will give you better results. Spraying is only worthwhile when you don't have to mask off an entire room. It's alot of work to cover floors, windows, doors, fans, lights, and anything else. It's also expensive to buy plastic and tape. I only spray new homes with nothing in them. If you are painting the walls in the room, always paint the ceiling first. It's easier to cut a line on a wall than it is to cut a ceiling. So if you paint the ceiling first you can hit the wall without any worry. I actually use the little whizz rollers (3 inchers) to cut the ceilings. You can just roll them along the wall if you are going to paint the wall later. A light or fan would be the only thing you would need to cut with a brush in this case. Hope these help. It's a painful job for alot of home owners so ask away, if you have more. For the sunlight, I close blinds and even turn lights out sometimes. It makes it alot easier to see where you have painted. Some products have ceiling paint that goes on a different color and dries white. I've seen pink to white and grey to white. That masterhide Sherwin Williams product goes on a light grey and dries white. If it's nightime, use a work lamp but don't have it shine directly at the ceiling. Moderate/indirect light is best.
Nanker Posted February 9, 2010 Posted February 9, 2010 I've got the answer to this. Trust me. I've done a lot of painting and wall papering and consider myself decent. But last year the Mrs. and I did a ton of work on the house - actually, we had a ton done. I painted the living room ceiling three times. Once with primer and twice with flat ceiling white paint. I busted my ass (back actually) on that and still had a three foot long 3 inch wide streak where the specular gloss didn't match the rest of the ceiling. I was pissed, but refused to do it over again. Fast forward about two months and we hired a painted to do the kitchen - walls and ceiling. Boom, boom, he's done in two passes and it's perfect. I asked him what the trade secret was. It's this... A friggin' WOOL Roller with a deep knap. Unbelievably great device. I'll never, and I mean never ever paint a ceiling again with anything but that. Try it, you'll not be disappointed. It's the right tool for the job.
Recommended Posts