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Posted

Should I put the studded tires on just the front or on all 4 tires? Last year I only put them on the front because someone told me that's what they recommend, but when I went around turns it seems to slide in the back. What's the proper way?

Posted

I guess all 4 can't hurt.

 

Turn slower next time or put a few fat arses in the back seat... I don't suggest a dead body in the trunk, when the cops stop you (for corning too fast), you end up in deep poo...!!

 

:lol::lol:

 

Where do you live? In the Mts? I can't imagine studed on a fwd? I think they are illegal in IL (except if you are passing through).

Posted
Where do you live?  In the Mts?  I can't imagine studed on a fwd?  I think they are illegal in IL (except if you are passing through).

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PA. The last time I went without studded tires I slid all the way down a 1 mile hill with my break on and I never came to a complete stop.

Posted
PA.  The last time I went without studded tires I slid all the way down a 1 mile hill with my break on and I never came to a complete stop.

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Double edge sword there, hill puts you in a trick-bag. When you break, you turn your vehicle into a giant sled... Keep traction by having the wheels turn... Thus the pumping thingy or anti-lock (of course, never pump with anti-locks... it does it for you) brake action.

 

Like skiing on ice... If you feel comfortable, don't sweat it, just turn where there is NO ice... Of course easier said then done when you picked up a head of steam you feel uncomfortable controlling... :lol::lol:

 

Then again... What do I know?... I am just a lousy flat-lander...

 

Good luck!

Posted

Tire width, tread rubber compound, and tread design play roles.

 

The wider the tire, the less psi on the ground, so the more flotation. A tire needs to get to a tractive surface - the pavement - to work best. Many of today's vehicles have overly-wide tires - ok for dry conditions, but not for inclement weather. Many SUV tires have an "aggresive" tread design, useful for many off-road conditions, and usually beneficial for low-speed snow driving, but have some undesireable characteristics at normal and highway speeds, in dry and inclement weather.

 

Snow tires have rubber compounding that allows for better cold weather flexibility and affinity for moisture. The trade-off is increased wear.

 

Not all so-called all-season tires are equal, also. Toyota has a reputation of providing OEM skins on their sedans that have relatively hard compounding and low rolling resistance. Good for fuel economy, but not for rain or especially snow. The Corolla model is notable here.

 

Tires, in design and application, are very sophisticated things...

Posted
Tire width, tread rubber compound, and tread design play roles.

 

The wider the tire, the less psi on the ground, so the more flotation. A tire needs to get to a tractive surface - the pavement - to work best.  Many of today's vehicles have overly-wide tires - ok for dry conditions, but not for inclement weather.  Many SUV tires have an "aggresive" tread design, useful for many off-road conditions, and usually beneficial for low-speed snow driving, but have some undesireable characteristics at normal and highway speeds, in dry and inclement weather.

 

Snow tires have rubber compounding that allows for better cold weather flexibility and affinity for moisture. The trade-off is increased wear.

 

Not all so-called all-season tires are equal, also. Toyota has a reputation of providing OEM skins on their sedans that have relatively hard compounding and low rolling rsistance. Good for fuel economy, but  not for rain or especially snow. The Corolla model is notable here.

 

Tires, in design and application, are very sophisticated things...

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Absolutely correct. My winter tires are Nokian Hakkopollitas and there is significantly less surface touching the road than my OEM summer tires. The Nokians remain soft well below zero.

Posted
Absolutely correct.  My winter tires are Nokian Hakkopollitas and there is significantly less surface touching the road than my OEM summer tires.  The Nokians remain soft well below zero.

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Many years ago, AC Delco sold a product named "Liquid Tire Chain".

 

Back then, almost all vehicles on the road were RWD, with a few 4WD's and the odd FWD Saab. Installing tire chains was very common. If you wanted to go, that's what you did.

 

The Delco product came in a one-use spray can (actually, more of an extrusion than spray) that dispensed a very hydrophyllic, tarry, oozing substance. You would apply it to your drive wheels in a left-to-right ribbos across the tire tread surface. A spinning tire on ice produces heat, the ice or snow turns to water, and a tire will be happy to spin all day long on a layer of water.

 

The "LTC" attracted water - which has it's own shear properties thanks to hydrogen bonding, van der Waal's forces etc. - and thus raised shear values between the tire and the underlying surface seperated by the water. Result - traction.

 

It really worked. It was messy and pricey, so it wasn't around long.

 

IIRC, it would last for a half our or so.

Guest bitch slap
Posted
Absolutely correct.  My winter tires are Nokian Hakkopollitas and there is significantly less surface touching the road than my OEM summer tires.  The Nokians remain soft well below zero.

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Nokians are great. Best snowtire on the market.

Posted
Many years ago, AC Delco sold a product named "Liquid Tire Chain".

 

Back then, almost all vehicles on the road were RWD, with a few 4WD's and the odd FWD Saab. Installing tire chains was very common. If you wanted to go, that's what you did.

 

The Delco product came in a one-use spray can (actually, more of an extrusion than spray) that dispensed a very hydrophyllic, tarry, oozing substance. You would apply it to your drive wheels in a left-to-right ribbos across the tire tread surface.  A spinning tire on ice produces heat, the ice or snow turns to water, and a tire will be happy to spin all day long on a layer of water.

 

The "LTC" attracted water - which has it's own shear properties thanks to hydrogen bonding, van der Waal's forces etc. - and thus raised shear values between the tire and the underlying surface seperated by the water. Result - traction.

 

It really worked. It was messy and pricey, so it wasn't around long.

 

IIRC, it would last for a half our or so.

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That sounds pretty cool. Never heard of it before.

Posted
That sounds pretty cool.  Never heard of it before.

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It's from the mid 1960's :w00t:

 

I still carry the so-called "cheater" chains, occasionally referred to as "mud hooks" (in the South).

 

They are the ones that are 2 lengths of tire chains that attach to a spreader plate, with a canvas strap/buckle that you run through the wheel and pull taut:

 

http://www.tirechain.com/fix&go.htm

 

They go "thump-thump-thump", but they get you out of a tough spot - gotta remove them after you are unstuck, of course.

Posted

Never compromise your snow traction by only putting on 2 snow tires; your back end won't have the same traction and you could end up doing doughnuts in the middle of the road.

 

FWIW, unless you're in extreme snow country, I think 4 dedicated snow tires is a better choice than studded tires. As others have said, check out Nokian tires, the benchmark in snow tires IMO.

Posted
FWIW, unless you're in extreme snow country, I think 4 dedicated snow tires is a better choice than studded tires. 

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But my problem has always been ICE. Not our ice, but icey roads.

Posted
Never compromise your snow traction by only putting on 2 snow tires; your back end won't have the same traction and you could end up doing doughnuts in the middle of the road.

 

FWIW, unless you're in extreme snow country, I think 4 dedicated snow tires is a better choice than studded tires.  As others have said, check out Nokian tires, the benchmark in snow tires IMO.

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Studs are better on ice than snow tires. By a WIDE margin.

Posted
But my problem has always been ICE.  Not our ice, but icey roads.

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Ah, ice you say. Yeah, he is a jerk...oh wait, you mean frozen water. Yes, if you've got ice concerns, studs are better, but again, I'd spend the extra $$ on 4 tires.

Posted
But only when the temperature of the ice is at or neer 32 deg F.  When the ice temperature is lower, they do not bite, and revisit some of the problems that they present on dry or wet surfaces.

 

http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cache:k9ySk...ure+range&hl=en

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Yeah, that's the problem I have been contemplating. So maybe that's why they say to only have the studs in the front? I could envision driving 65 on a dry road with 4 studded tires and then making a turn. I think I'd end up sliding off the road.

Posted
Yeah, that's the problem I have been contemplating.  So maybe that's why they say to only have the studs in the front?  I could envision driving 65 on a dry road with 4 studded tires and then making a turn.  I think I'd end up sliding off the road.

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If you use studs, use them at all 4 wheels. But were it me, I wouldn't use studs, instead purchasing a set of 4 of contemporary, quality snows. The tires that accept studs are at the lower area of general tire technology.

 

I lived in Western PA for about 11 years - I share some experience with you. I think you will be better served by the modern snow tires - at all 4 wheels, of course. The company, Tire Rack, has a lot of advise regarding choices.

 

I used to negotiate a lot of downhill stretches in PA's Laurel Mountains in the winter. Gearing down and judicious use of the handbrake is useful. Taking it slow, goes without saying, of course!

 

PM me with your vehicle specifics (model, transmission, factory tire size, anticipated terrain, anti-lock or not,) if you need some humble advice based on experience and technology. :w00t:

Posted
But only when the temperature of the ice is at or near 32 deg F.  When the ice temperature is lower, they do not bite, and revisit some of the problems that they present on dry or wet surfaces.

 

http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cache:k9ySk...ure+range&hl=en

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I'm going off my experience, which is pretty much 5.5 months per year of ice covered roads (I can literally skate on the road leading to my house and have been able to for the last week). We have 3 vehicles in our family, two with Nokian studded tires and one with regular (expensive) snow tires.

 

While there are some minor concerns with cornering of studded tires, they are easily compensated for by driving at speeds proper for conditions. That's really the rub of studded tires and 4WD vehicles. They give stupid people the improper belief that they can drive the way they do when conditions are optimal.

 

I'll take my studs anytime, regardless of what some university study says. 10 years of driving on terrible roads that are poorly kept makes that choice VERY easy.

 

My Tires

Posted
I'm going off my experience, which is pretty much 5.5 months per year of ice covered roads (I can literally skate on the road leading to my house and have been able to for the last week).  We have 3 vehicles in our family, two with Nokian studded tires and one with regular (expensive) snow tires. 

 

While there are some minor concerns with cornering of studded tires, they are easily compensated for by driving at speeds proper for conditions.  That's really the rub of studded tires and 4WD vehicles.  They give stupid people the improper belief that they can drive the way they do when conditions are optimal.

 

I'll take my studs anytime, regardless of what some university study says.  10 years of driving on terrible roads that are poorly kept makes that choice VERY easy.

 

My Tires

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Certainly so.

 

All the technology in the world falls by the wayside if a certain level of understanding of basic physics does not reside behind the steering wheel. :w00t:

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