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Posted

hi everyone. i'm looking for some info. I am in the midst of a home renovation project in the kenmore, ny area and am preparing to have the entire interior drywalled. i've pretty much done every facet of the project on my own but want to leave the drywalling up to some experienced pros. i have about 6000 square feet to have done and am wondering if anyone here does that kind of work or can recommend someone in the area to do it.

 

so far my estimates have been alot more than they should be. it's been difficult finding someone reliable and reasonable to do the work. if anyone has any suggestions they are all welcome. thanks in advance.

Posted
hi everyone.  i'm looking for some info.  I am in the midst of a home renovation project in the kenmore, ny area and am preparing to have the entire interior drywalled. i've pretty much done every facet of the project on my own but want to leave the drywalling up to some experienced pros.  i have about 6000 square feet to have done and am wondering if anyone here does that kind of work or can recommend someone in the area to do it. 

 

so far my estimates have been alot more than they should be. it's been difficult finding someone reliable and reasonable to do the work.  if anyone has any suggestions they are all welcome.  thanks in advance.

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My advice is to hang it yourself and hire someone to finish it. MUCH cheaper that way and a monkey can hang drywall.

Posted
My advice is to hang it yourself and hire someone to finish it.  MUCH cheaper that way and a monkey can hang drywall.

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That's a "trained" monkey that can hang drywall.....not just any ol' monkey off the street.... :)

Posted

As it's already pointed out, hanging is easy. Finishing (mudding, spackling, etc) is not really difficult, but takes to long to do in my opinion.

Posted
That's a "trained" monkey that can hang drywall.....not just any ol' monkey off the street.... :)

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Trained in the use of a screwgun and a straight edge with a little math ability. Really not much to it.

Posted
My advice is to hang it yourself and hire someone to finish it.  MUCH cheaper that way and a monkey can hang drywall.

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Yeah. You're right. My ex hung some in the basement and didn't get the water-proof kind. It's amazing what water can do to drywall. :)

Posted
Yeah. You're right. My ex hung some in the basement and didn't get the water-proof kind. It's amazing what water can do to drywall.  :)

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Ah, but picking the right stuff has little to do with hanging it. Hangs the same.

Posted
Yeah. You're right. My ex hung some in the basement and didn't get the water-proof kind. It's amazing what water can do to drywall.  :)

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OMG.....I read that too fast and thought it started out....."My ex was hung....

Posted
Ah, but picking the right stuff has little to do with hanging it.  Hangs the same.

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Probably tears out the same way, too. They have a nifty tool to do that. With each blow I pretended it was my ex's face. :)

Posted
OMG.....I read that too fast and thought it started out....."My ex was hung....

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Got too excited that he might still be single didn't you.

Posted
Probably tears out the same way, too. They have a nifty tool to do that. With each blow I pretended it was my ex's face.  :)

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You used "blow", "tool", and "face" in the same sentence.

Posted
Ah, but picking the right stuff has little to do with hanging it.  Hangs the same.

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gypsum is one of the strangest words associated with construction.....imo.

 

And now, back to the show.....

 

If you decide to hang your own, just in case you have no spare monkeys around, maybe you could use "blueboard" the type of drywall that accepts skimcoat plaster....it's a good way to hide a "not so professional hanging job" and a plastering contractor could do the skimcoating.....that is if they do that type of work round your parts....

Posted
If you decide to hang your own, just in case you have no spare monkeys around, maybe you could use "blueboard" the type of drywall that accepts skimcoat plaster....it's a good way to hide a "not so professional hanging job" and a plastering contractor could do the skimcoating.....that is if they do that type of work round your parts....

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....and don't inhale the dust. :)

Posted
What's drywall?  B)

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plasterboard

 

and BTW 4x8 sheets for the walls; 4x10 or 12's for the ceilings. Use drywall nails, spaced 3 foot, starting 2 inches from the ceiling and nailing downward. When putting up the ceiling drywall its best if two people help if your not experienced towing a piece up at the wall. Ceilings nail from the center toward the walls.

Use proper tools for finishing to cover nail holes and the seems. Usually not too much plastering involved except for the seams. I like to use a mesh tape for the seams. Two to three light coats of spackling will give a nicer look, just let it dry throughly before sanding after every coat. I like to give virgin walls two coats of drywall primer also. Make sure you dust down the walls first though. One more thing if you have to cut it, use a drywall knife and always cut the side that faces out not the side toward the inside of the wall; and if your not sure what side is the finished side ask! That way if the paper tears when you break it apart the boo-boo (-: will be on the inside. PM me I have a good man that does this work if you don't want to tackle this yourself.

Posted

All good advice. It's not that hard, just takes a little practice to get good (and fast), which you don't have to be - plaster covers a lot of errors. Measure twice, cut once. A metal T-square, box cutter (and blades, sheetrock dulls them fast), pencil, chalk line (angles), hammer and nails is about all you need to get started. But 6000 sq ft may be more than you want to try your first time out. My brother and I would hang a 2000-3000 sq ft house over 3-4 days; it would take you quite a while longer.

 

Here's how to cut the length of a 4x8 sheet cleanly: All the sheets should be staged on their side leaning against a wall (hopefully, the last one you plan on covering.) With the board on it's side, hold the top of the T-square on the top of the board with the right side of the verticle at your measurement. Use your toe to keep the bottom of the T in place, and use your knee to keep the middle against the board. There's a notch on the right side of the T-square - that's so you can take the knife and cut across the top of the board, then run the knife along the side down past your knee. Then turn the knife and start at the bottom of the T-square and cut up. Move the T-square out of the way. Lean the board out away from the others so you can grab the board with both hands, left one on the cut, right one far enought to the right to snap the board forward at the cut so that it breaks to a 90 degree angle - which will hold it up when you set it down. Keep a hand on top of the board. Step around back, and run the knife top down and bottom up on the backside of the cut to get all the way through. Snap the board back toward the stack of boards. Should be a clean cut and a clean break every time. You can't do that on small cuts, less than a couple inches, or you'll break the cut uneven.

 

Lotta bad memories of doing this starting at 11 years old through Buffalo winters. Chalk dust so heavy you tasted it, and fingers that would get too numb to grab more nails out of the pouch (unfinished houses having no heat.) Which reminds me, 6000 sq ft, the hell with hammer and nails, get a good drywall screw gun, that holds the screw steady. A cheap one will do - your shoulder/elbow will thank you later.

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